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Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo, 1997 (1.5L)

$699.00
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A magnum of Barolo made by Bartolo Mascarello himself, right in the middle of the years he spent holding the line against barrique. When new-oak Barolo swept the region in the late 1980s and 1990s, Bartolo hand-drew a "No Barrique, No Berlusconi" label and slipped copies into random cases like golden tickets. He said barrique turned Barolo into "a clown with rouged cheeks". Earlier he had turned down the single-cru fashion too, arguing that his four vineyards (Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche dell'Annunziata) made a better wine together. The house doesn't just blend them: it co-ferments them in one long fermentation. In Barolo, 1997 was a warm, ripe year that gave generous, flattering wines, so here a sunny season meets a completely uncompromising house. His daughter Maria Teresa took over in 2005 and still makes the wine his way, on an estate of about five hectares that has refused to grow and sells much of its wine to private clients who come each year to collect their share. This is a big bottle for a table of friends, so stand it upright ahead of time and decant it off its sediment.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"All of the radiance and warmth of the vintage comes through in the 1997 Barolo. Voluptuous and racy, with plenty of dark red cherry and plum pushed forward, the 1997 hits all the right notes. A rush of red cherry, plum and tobacco give the 1997 its luscious, creamy personality. This is a pleasant surprise." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

94 points

"I underestimated this wine from barrel, but now that the great old man of the village of Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, has gotten it in bottle, it is an impressive, old style, heavyweight effort that will age for three decades. A dark plum/garnet color is accompanied by a striking bouquet of cinnamon, balsam wood, roses, tar, minerals, and cherry liqueur. There is good acidity, a broad, full-bodied, super-concentrated palate, and tell-tale truffle, leather, and dried herb notes. Powerful and long, this well-delineated, gorgeously pure, structured Barolo is a classic from the old school of Piedmontese winemaking." —Robert M. Parker, Jr.

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    1997

  • Size

    1.5L

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, agnolotti del plin in roast juices, tajarin with shaved white truffle, braised veal cheeks, or a wedge of aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Expect classic traditional Barolo: red cherry, dried violets, tar and herbs, moving toward leather, truffle and forest floor with age. Typically paler than its power suggests, with high acidity, firm, grippy Nebbiolo tannins and no new-oak vanilla masking the fruit. The finish is dry, long and savoury.