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Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo, 2020

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
by Bartolo Mascarello
$224.00
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Bartolo Mascarello spent his life arguing that Barolo is a blend of places rather than a single one, and his daughter Maria Teresa has never wavered from it. There are no single-cru bottlings here and no barriques. Fruit from the family's plots is fermented together, long and slow, and raised in large old casks, which is why one wine comes out of this cellar every year instead of four. The 2020 draws on five sites for the first time: Cannubi, Rue and San Lorenzo in Barolo, Rocche dell'Annunziata in La Morra, and leased vines in Monrobio di Bussia, with San Lorenzo returning to the blend for the first time since 2014 after being grubbed up and replanted. That's the whole appeal: one wine, made the same way, from a house that turned refusing to change into an argument worth listening to. It's tightly wound young and built to unwind for decades, so give it air, or give it time.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2020 Barolo is classy, elegant and polished, just as it was last year. Crushed flowers, sage, citrus mint, spice, cedar and pipe tobacco give this ethereal, nuanced Barolo notable aromatic presence. All the elements are very nicely balanced. This is an especially ethereal Barolo from Maria Teresa Mascarello. Nervy tannins lend verve throughout. It will be interesting to see how this ages." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

96 points

"This wine is on the market now. The Bartolo Mascarello 2020 Barolo represents a blend of fruit from five sites for the first time, Maria Teresa Mascarello tells me excitedly. The classic blend of the recent past saw fruit from Rue and Cannubi in Barolo and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra. San Lorenzo, if only with fruit from a mere 3,000 square meters of seven-year-old vines, returns to the blend with this vintage. The wine also has fruit from Monrobio di Bussia from 4,000 square meters of leased vineyards. (Monrobio di Bussia took the place of San Lorenzo from the 2015 to the 2019 vintages). The Rue vineyard measures 4,000 square meters and has 35-year-old plants. Rocche dell’Annunziata measures 1.3 hectares, and its vines range from 35 to 40 years old. The oldest vines in Cannubi reach 70 years in age, but replanting over the years has introduced 15-, 20- and 25-year-old plants. The site measures one hectare and makes up about one-third of this wine (with fruit sourced from across a total of 3.3 hectares). Rocche dell’Annunziata also makes up one-third of the blend." —Monica Larner

Decanter

97 points

"In the blend of Maria Teresa Mascarello's Barolo 2020, the replanted San Lorenzo vineyard makes a comeback, with a small portion of young-vine fruit. It was harvested on 2 October, while the rest (from Rocche dell'Annunziata and Cannubi) was picked from 4-8 October, after the rain. The result is a wine with a backdrop of very fresh redcurranty fruits, violets, deep spices including liquorice root, as well as hints of linden, almost camphor, and wild strawberry. A defined expression demonstrating a lot of maturity and savouriness."

Wine Spectator

95 points

"This graceful, fragrant Barolo exhibits strawberry, cherry, rose hip, mineral and earth flavors. There's grip from the lightly chewy tannins, plus vivid acidity. Overall, this red is pure, expressive and fluid, showing fine length and intensity."

Kerin O'Keefe

97 points

"To be released this fall, the gorgeous 2020 Barolo from Maria Teresa Mascarello is a fantastic expression of the vintage, starting with its enticing aromas of perfumed berry, rose and culinary spice. Full-bodied and generous, the enveloping palate doles out ripe raspberry, star anise, crushed mint and blood orange seamlessly supported by well-integrated, polished tannins. Made with Nebbiolo from five vineyards, including the estate’s San Lorenzo cru for the first time since 2014 after it was grubbed up in 2015 and replanted in 2017, it has great, succulent fruit, balance, structure and depth. Drink 2026–2035." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, tajarin with butter and truffle, braised beef cheek, or aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Structured and perfumed: rose, tar, red cherry and dried herbs, with firm, fine tannins and bright acidity.

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