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Bartolo Mascarello, Langhe Nebbiolo, 2017

$82.99
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This is the most direct way into Bartolo Mascarello without buying the Barolo. It's Nebbiolo made by the same people, in the same cellar and in the same stubborn way. Maria Teresa Mascarello took over from her father, Bartolo, and makes tiny amounts of Langhe Nebbiolo alongside the Barolo, which accounts for most of what the estate produces. All the wines are fermented in old concrete vats with only a basic temperature-control system. A porous wooden board weighted down with a brick keeps the cap of skins under the wine, and afterward the wine ages in big Gerbellotto casks, never in small barriques. Avoiding small barrels is practically the family motto: when barrique-aged Barolo became fashionable, Bartolo answered with a hand-written label reading "No Barrique, No Berlusconi." He also refused to bottle single vineyards separately and kept making one blended Barolo from four vineyards in Barolo and La Morra. Maria Teresa still follows his rules, with long macerations and nothing trendy. If you've wondered what all the fuss about traditional Barolo is, this is a smart, honest place to start.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"Sweet dried red cherry, mint, sweet tobacco, orange peel and incense are all lifted in the 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo. Translucent and pretty, the 2017 is a touch ethereal, but there is a good bit of tannic grip. Because of low yields in Barolo, Maria Teresa Mascarello made this wine from purchased grapes from San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, which is in the Barbaresco zone." —Antonio Galloni

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Just mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Finely perfumed, sweet red fruit with a hint of iron. Super-elegant palate with persistent, coating tannins. Fluid." —Walter Speller

Kerin O'Keefe

97 points

"Camphor, dark spice, cedar and a whiff of sun warmed hay slowly shape the enticing nose. The full-bodied palate boasts weightless finesse and a great depth of flavors, featuring ripe Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and a hint of tobacco framed in firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2032." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with meat ragù, beef braised in red wine, porcini risotto, roast duck, or aged Castelmagno cheese.

Tasting Profile

Expect classic, traditional Nebbiolo: translucent garnet, with red cherry, violets, dried herbs and a hint of tar. Long macerations and large casks keep the fruit pure, with no vanilla from small barrels, while firm tannins and lively acidity lead to a savoury, dry finish. Think of it as a younger, more approachable take on traditional Barolo.