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Brezza, Barolo Sarmassa, 1990 (1.5L)

$359.00
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A magnum from one of the legendary warm vintages of the modern Barolo era, made by a 25-year-old Enzo Brezza in only his second harvest at the helm. Enzo took over from father Oreste in 1989, trained under his uncle and godfather Bartolo Mascarello, and inherited the family's prime parcel in Sarmassa, a Barolo-village cru historically prized for combining structure with perfume. Thirty-five years on, this 1.5L bottling is squarely in its mature drinking window: the sweet, glycerine-rich 1990 vintage character carried in magnum format, from a traditionalist's earliest era. A museum piece of village Barolo, with the slower evolution that only the larger format delivers.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"Proprietor Enzo Brezza was at the beginning of his career when he made his 1990 Barolo Sarmassa, a wine that remains fresh and vibrant to this day. It is big and powerful, with a decidedly exotic bouquet of rosemary, sage and smoke. Notes of tobacco, leather and earthiness develop in the glass, adding further layers of complexity. The tannins remain powerful and the wine possesses a remarkable level of freshness for a 1990. Some rough edges remain, but it is impossible not to admire this eccentric and quirky Barolo. In 1990 Brezza did not produce his Bricco Sarmassa selection, so the straight Barolo Sarmassa contains all of the best fruit. This is a wonderful effort from Brezza." —Antonio Galloni

More about Brezza

While we are fortunate that the fashion for big & bold, flashy & opulent has seen its day in Barolo, that doesn't mean that every traditionally made Barolo manages to achieve the harmony and elegance that we seek—but Brezza delivers.

The wines from this address have always been good, but they've become truly fine in recent years. Enzo is the driving force behind the huge step up in quality that this old estate has taken in the past decade or so, as well as their conversion to organic viticulture. He makes unfailingly honest and delicate wines of purpose.

Brezza's wines are all from hand-harvested estate fruit and are fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. The Baroli are aged in 3,000L untoasted Slavonian oak botti. None of the wines are fined or filtered. The results are classic beauties of red fruit and charm.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    1990

  • Size

    1.5L

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, agnolotti del plin in butter and sage, aged Castelmagno, or roasted pheasant with porcini. Library Barolo of this age and format calls for a slow Sunday lunch and a long table.

Tasting Profile

Mature warm-vintage Barolo: dried rose, tar, sweet cherry liqueur, leather, truffle and forest floor. The magnum keeps the fruit lively while tannins have resolved into something silken, lifted by Sarmassa's signature perfume.