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Cappellano, Barbera d'Alba, 2013

$69.99
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This 2013 Barbera comes from one of Serralunga's most traditional houses, and more than ten years on it has had the patience this wine always asks for. Cappellano makes Barbera the way it makes Barolo: a long maceration, then several years in large neutral casks. Most Langhe Barbera gets either a quick run through stainless steel or a heavy dose of extraction and new oak instead. The fruit comes from the family's small parcel in the Gabutti cru, on the western slopes of Serralunga d'Alba at about 300 metres, and Serralunga has more limestone than any other Barolo village. The family describes its Barbera as a classic one built on pronounced acidity, generous but firm in bearing, and they bottle and release it only when they judge it ready. Augusto Cappellano comes from a family that has made wine here since 1870, and the family credits natural farming for a Barbera that is always recognisable but never the same twice. 2013 was a cool, classically structured year in Barolo, so a mature Barbera from that vintage is a rare chance to see what time does to the grape in hands like these.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Barbera

  • Vintage

    2013

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with a meat ragù, agnolotti del plin in butter and sage, braised rabbit with olives, porcini risotto, or a board of aged salami and Toma cheese.

Tasting Profile

Expect old-school Barbera: sour cherry, plum and dried herbs, with savoury, earthy notes from long ageing in large neutral casks. Its hallmark is Barbera's pronounced acidity, holding up generous fruit over gentle tannins in a medium-bodied, firm frame. It typically finishes long and fresh, closer in spirit to traditional Barolo than to modern, oaky Barbera.