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Cappellano, Barbera d'Alba Gabutti, 2015

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Cappellano makes Barbera with the same patience it gives its Barolo: a long maceration, then several years in large neutral casks. Most Langhe Barbera gets one of two treatments, a quick run through stainless steel or heavy extraction and new barrels, and Cappellano does neither. The grapes come from the family's holding in the Gabutti cru, on the western slopes of Serralunga d'Alba at about 300 metres. Serralunga has more limestone than any other Barolo village. The family calls its Barbera another expression of Gabutti, a classic Barbera built on pronounced acidity, "feminine in generosity, masculine in bearing." Augusto Cappellano is the fifth generation on this four-hectare estate, founded in 1870. He farms naturally and bottles the Barbera only when the family judges it ready. This is a Barbera that's meant to sit for a few years before you open it, and a 2015 from a warm Barolo vintage has had those years. That makes it a rare chance to see what time does to Barbera from one of Serralunga's most traditional houses.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Barbera

  • Vintage

    2015

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Natural

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Agnolotti del plin in butter and sage, tajarin with meat ragù, braised veal shank, salumi with Toma or Fontina, or a wild mushroom risotto.

Tasting Profile

Expect the traditional Barbera profile: dark cherry, plum and a savoury, earthy edge, with no new-oak vanilla covering the fruit. Barbera's signature bright acidity carries a medium-to-full body, with more grip than usual from the long maceration, and time in bottle typically softens it toward dried cherry and leather. The finish is dry, fresh and long.