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Castello di Verduno, Barolo Massara, 2019

$79.99
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Castello di Verduno is one of Barolo’s quiet traditionalists, crafting wines with finesse and a deep respect for terroir. Their Massara bottling comes from one of Verduno’s top crus, a southwest-facing vineyard known for its sandier soils, which produce some of the appellation’s most aromatic and graceful wines. The 2019 vintage, a cooler and more classically structured year, plays right into Massara’s strengths—delivering a wine of purity, balance, and aging potential.

More lifted and perfumed than the darker, more muscular Barolos of Serralunga or Monforte, Massara unfolds with layers of red cherry, wild strawberry, and dried rose petals. Notes of anise, cedar, and underbrush emerge with air, supported by refined tannins that give structure without overwhelming the wine’s elegance. Long aging in large Slavonian oak casks ensures transparency, allowing the vineyard’s mineral-driven character to shine.

This is a Barolo that rewards both patience and thoughtful food pairings. Decant if drinking young, or cellar for 15–20 years to watch its complexity evolve. Ideal alongside truffle-infused dishes, braised meats, or aged cheeses, Massara is a testament to Verduno’s reputation for graceful, terroir-driven Nebbiolo.

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Verduno was long one of the most obscure villages of Barolo. Stuck way up in the northern corner of the DOC, away from the tour buses and truffle shops, the geekiest of Barolo lovers knew it for the airier examples of Barolo that didn’t seem to please international markets. Very few producers even bothered exporting the wines.

Then something happened. Mostly what happened is Burlotto, and especially their superstar single Cru in Verduno known as Monvigliero. That wine, made in the traditionalist method that has been returning to fashion, awoke wine lovers to the greatness of Verduno.

Genealogy can normally be pretty boring, but in the case of the Castello di Verduno it tells you almost everything you need to know about the estate. Ancestor One was a Burlotto who inherited from his Mom and Dad the castle itself, along with vines in Monvigliero and other great Verduno sites. Ancestor Two was a member of the Barbaresco family of Franco Bianco. Thanks to this marriage of Barbaresco and Burlotto, the CdV now owns Barolo in Monvigliero and Barbaresco in Rabaja!

Wine-making is traditional, with 30-40 day macerations and aging in large Slavonian casks. But don’t assume this makes for big, brooding wines. Verdunois known, as noted above, for those airier examples of Barolo, and the Castello’s wines are definitely elegant and lack the forbidding structure of, say, a Serralunga. That’s terroir.

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

Vineyard
Massara in Verduno from vines planted in 1988 and 1992.
Orientation
Southeast at 280m in elevation.
Soil
Chalky clay known as Marne di Sant'Agata which is 30% sand, 55% clay and 15% limestone. .
Viticulture
Hand-harvested around in the first or second week of October. Practicing organic.
Vinification
The maceration was in open top wooden vats which lasted for 61 days using the traditional submerged cap method.
Aging
Aged for 31months in Austrian and Slavonian botti grandi followed by one month in stainless steel and then about 18 months in the bottle before release.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2019

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

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