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Cavallotto, Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vignolo, 1998

$179.99
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This 1998 Barolo Riserva comes from a vintage the Cavallotto family itself calls underrated. They put 1998 alongside 1988 and 2005: years that were overshadowed by the vintages around them at first and later came to be ranked near the top. It's also an early bottling of a cru nobody had bottled on its own until the family bought 60% of the historic Vignolo vineyard in 1989. Vignolo sits right next to their Bricco Boschis hill in Castiglione Falletto, 60 to 80 metres lower down, on the southern side of the long ridge that carries the Strada del Grosso road toward the hamlet of Garbelletto. The family says it gives Barolo with excellent structure and tannins that are soft and sweet from early on. They make this Riserva as traditionally as Barolo gets. More than twenty-five years later, this is a chance to taste an underrated vintage from a cru that was barely known as a single vineyard back then. Stand the bottle upright for a day, then decant it gently off its sediment.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"Barolo lovers know that Cavallotto is a bastion of traditionally-made wines, and their 1998 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is a case in point. Made from roughly fifty year-old vines, this is a big strapping wine that is drinking well enough now but that would benefit from another 7-8 years in the cellar to smoothen further. It will turn out to be longer-lived than I had originally anticipated. Although it’s at present a little angular and austere – like so many Barolos in this vintage of generally flesh-challenged wines – I’m always a sucker for the intense, perfumed red rose and sour red cherry flavors of great Nebbiolo wines. You’ll find plenty of both here. A match made in heaven with the braised guanciale (veal cheek), in which the high acids and strong tannins of the red to cut through the guanciale’s fatty texture." —Ian D'Agata

Robert Parker

88 points

"The 1998 Barolo Riserva San Giuseppe, with a significantly lighter color than the Bricco Boschis, is more mature on the nose, concentrated but drier on the palate yet less sweet and ample in its flavors and texture." —Daniel Thomases

More about Cavallotto

The village of Castiglione Falletto is rich with superstars—Giuseppe Mascarello, Brovia, Vietti, Scavino—and Cavallotto stands easily with the best of them. Of this elite group, Cavallotto's wines stand out for their deep fruit, brooding structure, rose petal aromatics, and incredible longevity.

Most of Cavallotto's grapes come from a hill called Bricco Boschis. Cavallotto owns all of it. Thanks to a mostly southern exposure at high altitude and a complex mix of limestone and clay, it's considered one of the top crus of a village known for many great crus. Cavallotto's San Giuseppe Riserva is made from the best grapes from the vineyard's oldest vines, mid-slope.

Cavallotto's other Riserva comes from Vignolo. It is next door to Bricco Boschis and just a little lower down the slope. The wine tends to be less powerful and more floral, and is perfect for drinking on a slightly earlier timescale than the San Giuseppe.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    1998

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with butter and shaved white truffle; beef braised in Barolo with polenta; roast pheasant or guinea fowl with porcini; porcini risotto; a wedge of aged Castelmagno or Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic traditional Barolo profile: red cherry, dried flowers, tar and herbs, with the leather, truffle and forest-floor notes Nebbiolo develops with long bottle age. It's typically medium-bodied but firmly structured, with lively acidity and tannins that Vignolo's sandy limestone soil tends to make softer and creamier than usual, finishing long and savoury.