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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault 1er Cru Porusots, 2023

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Porusots is the newest piece of a Meursault premier cru collection the Lafons have otherwise held for generations: it came to the domaine in 2011, alongside Jean-Marc Roulot, when the old Domaine René Manuel holdings were broken up. The site faces east on the upper stretch of Meursault's central crus, just north of Genevrières, and its deeper clay soils give a wine of more breadth and layered weight than the racier crus nearby. The estate has farmed biodynamically across all of its vines since 1998, early for Burgundy, and is now run by Léa and Pierre Lafon, the fifth generation, after Dominique stepped back at the end of 2021. Premier crus here see 25-40% new oak across about sixteen months in wood, with lees stirring used sparingly and long, cool cellar fermentations. 2023 gave whites of unusually good balance, acidity, fruit and alcohol all in harmony; give this a few years, and expect a top Meursault of this stripe to hold well past a decade.

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Burghound

94 points

"This is also ripe yet cool with its blend of green fruit, spice and broad array of citrus elements. There is notably more volume, though a bit less refinement, to the rich and exceptionally generous medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the markedly powerful, muscular and impressively long finale. This is excellent and very Porusots in character and a wine that should age accordingly."

Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2023 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru has an effervescent bouquet with orange zest and yellow plum scents, under which lies crushed stone and hints of almond. The palate is very well balanced with a bright bead of acidity. Touches of marzipan and white chocolate render the finish very seductive. A persistent spiciness lingers. Superb." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots is a touch more structured than the Bouchères and Goutte d'Or this year, exhibiting aromas of pear, confit citrus, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline palate that concludes with chalky grip." —William Kelley

Decanter

95 points

"The Lafon Porusots in 2023 is creamy and dense, offering aromas of apricot and quince with a floral note and a bit of spice. The texture is buttery, but balanced with fresh acidity for the vintage, carrying the wine to an impressively long finish. The grapes come from nearly a hectare acquired from the former René Manuel estate in 2010. This massive wine will show better with five to seven years in bottle and should drink over the next 25."

More about Domaine des Comtes Lafon

A Meursault institution that makes white Burgundy the way it should taste: rich but not heavy, layered but not overwrought. These Chardonnays from the Côte de Beaune sit at the intersection of power and elegance, especially the prized Clos de la Baronne, where the limestone terroir speaks clearly. The house has built its reputation on consistency and refinement—wines that age gracefully and reward patience. If you want to understand what limestone and lees aging can do in the hands of masters, this is where to start.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with butter and herbs, lobster, scallops in cream, veal blanquette, or aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

Medium- to full-bodied for Meursault, with ripe pear and yellow apple, hazelnut and a touch of struck-match reduction. Broad and layered on the palate, with fresh acidity underneath and a long, saline finish. Still young.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.