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Famille Mousse, Champagne L'Esquisse Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut [2023], NV (Pre-Arrival; ETA: Early November 2026)

$55.99 $63.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles

L'Esquisse means "the sketch," and it is exactly that: the fastest, most direct read on the Mousse house style, all savory dried pear and tension. Cedric Mousse farms the green illite clay of Cuisles in the Vallee de la Marne, an unusual soil for Champagne that holds water through dry summers and gives Meunier an almost Chardonnay-like lift. This is about three-quarters Meunier with the rest Pinot Noir, from Cuisles, Jonquery and Chatillon-sur-Marne, fermented and aged in stainless steel and rested some eighteen months on the lees before an extra brut dosage of a gram and a half. Organic farming, no additives and no new oak, in keeping with the family's decision to strip the makeup out of their wines. It is the most direct introduction to the range. A fire destroyed the Mousse winery in the summer of 2026; the family is safe and at work rebuilding, and this Champagne was made before it happened.

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More about

Pinot Meunier has always played "third fiddle" to Champagne's power couple, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Growers always liked having it around because it buds later than PN and Chard, which means it's less likely to be damaged by the late frosts that can hit Champagne so far north--especially in the Marne Valley. For growers it meant diversification.

For drinkers, on the other hand, it was an unglamorous variety that often came across as rustic or rough-edged. But that perception has been changing. Culty producers like Jerome Prevost and Raphael Bereche make highly sought-after Meunier-based wines. And even below the superstar level there's a whole generation of small growers who have started putting out really delicious Meunier-focused champagnes that don't break the bank.

Cedric Moussé is a classic example. When he took over the family estate in 2003 he was the 12th generation to run things. He practices organic farming and makes wines that are precise, savory, and bright-fruited, with no oak influence. They show Meunier's pretty side: purity of fruit, white flowers, subtle herbal tones, and they show its terroir transparency, with clear mineral signatures.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Meunier , Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What has to say about this wine:

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Fried chicken, oysters, gougeres, sushi, or salty snacks before dinner.

Tasting Profile

Dried pear, chamomile, herbs and crushed flowers, more savory than fruity. Medium body, fine energetic bubbles, brisk acidity, clean dry finish.

Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!