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Franz Hirtzberger, Gruner Veltliner Honivogl Smaragd, 2002

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$99.99
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This is a Honivogl Smaragd with more than two decades in bottle: a chance to see what one of the Wachau's most structured Grüner Veltliners becomes when someone actually waits for it. Honivogl sits at the foot of the Singerriedel, and it's where Franz Hirtzberger grows his best Grüner every year. The soil is very mineral and the slope faces south, which together give ideal conditions for this wine. Smaragd is the Wachau's most ageworthy tier, made for the cellar rather than the summer patio, and here that promise has had the time to play out. The family has grown wine in Spitz for five generations, working from a farmstead that dates back to the 13th century. That kind of continuity is part of why Hirtzberger is a Wachau icon. If you only know Grüner as a young, peppery aperitif, this bottle is the other half of the story. Open it with a serious dinner.

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Wine Spectator

91 points

"Rich, dense and well-integrated from beginning to end, this has power and intensity, along with body and a firm structure buoying its peach, lentil, grapefruit and white pepper notes. Good lingering finish, too. A fine '02 Grüner Veltliner."

More about Franz Hirtzberger

Franz Hirtzberger and F.X. Pichler are the two greatest producers of the Wachau and arguably of dry white wines in Austria. Located in the tiny village of Spitz, surrounded by mountains and the Danube, Hirtzberger makes Riesling that tastes like pure minerality and precision. His terraced vineyard names—Hochrain, Singerriedel, Steinporz—are synonymous with the greatest wines of the region.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gruner Veltliner

  • Vintage

    2002

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener schnitzel with potato-cucumber salad, roast chicken with morels, veal blanquette, white asparagus with hollandaise, pork loin with green peppercorn sauce, or a wedge of aged Comté or Bergkäse.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic profile of a mature Wachau Smaragd Grüner Veltliner: the white pepper and green fruit of youth give way to honeyed stone fruit, dried herbs and a savoury, slightly smoky depth. It is typically concentrated but medium-bodied, with firm acidity and a stony, mineral core, and it finishes dry, long and savoury.

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