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FX Pichler, Riesling Loibner Steinertal Smaragd, 2002

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$79.99
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Here's a chance to taste what FX Pichler's coolest Loiben vineyard does with more than twenty years in bottle, and someone else has already done the waiting. Steinertal sits at the far eastern end of Austria's Wachau, between the Loibenberg and Pfaffenberg vineyards, but it behaves differently from both. At night, cool northerly breezes from the nearby forest run through it on their way down to the Danube, which makes it the slow-ripening, mineral site among the Loiben vineyards. Its old name, Steingraben, came from its shape: a rift that opens into an amphitheatre as it runs down toward Unterloiben. The ground is poor, too. The Ice Age loess wore away long ago, leaving sandy, barren soil with very little humus over lime-free, acidic Gfรถhler gneiss. Cool nights and hungry soil are exactly what you want in a Riesling meant to last, and a 2002 Smaragd is where that pays off.

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More about FX Pichler

F.X. Pichler has often been called the greatest winemaker in Austria and is certainly an icon.

His son Lucas Pichler has taken over the estate and continues the tradition of producing mouth-filling, complex wines from their ancient holdings in the Kellerberg and Loibenberg.

The wines can tend towards opulent and exotic but with time open up to new layers. The layers deepen and complicate more, the longer you can keep yourself from drinking it.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2002

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork loin with apples and caraway; Wiener schnitzel with lemon and potato-cucumber salad; pan-fried trout with brown butter and almonds; Alsatian choucroute garnie; a mature washed-rind cheese like Vacherin or ร‰poisses.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Wachau Smaragd Riesling profile: peach, apricot and citrus with a stony, gneiss-driven minerality, a full but dry body and firm, lively acidity. Wines from a cool, slow-ripening site like Steinertal are built to age. With time in bottle they typically pick up honeyed, petrol-tinged and dried-fruit notes and finish long and savoury.