FX Pichler, Riesling Smaragd Unendlich, 2012

Name: FX Pichler, Riesling Smaragd Unendlich, 2012
Brand: Private
SKU: NYC-[CNSN]-TTSUMMER0826-092226-31-4
Price: 369.00 USD
Availability: InStock

White Wine from Wachau, Austria

$369.00

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Unendlich means "infinite." This 2012 has now had more than a decade in bottle to test whether it deserves the name. The family says the idea behind Unendlich was to get as much terroir and as much varietal character as possible out of a single wine. The name dates back to the first vintage, 1998. Early barrel tastings that year showed a Riesling with what the Pichlers called a "Mozartean" personality and a finish that seemed to go on forever. Mozart turns up on the label too: F.X. Pichler is a huge opera fan, and he chose a draft stage set for The Magic Flute by the Prussian architect Karl-Friedrich Schinkel, with a starry sky on blue and the Queen of the Night standing for cosmic infinity. F.X. calls the wine "an experience for the senses, an artistic synthesis." That's a lot to promise, and a Wachau Smaragd with this much bottle age is the right place to find out if it holds up. Open it with friends who'll enjoy the story as much as what's in the glass.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"Flamboyantly ripe aromas of white peach, dried pineapple, acacia honey and wet slate. Intense, rich and heady, but with a subtle acid structure keeping this riesling alive on the palate. Juicy apricot, papaya and slate come through on the finish." —Joel B. Payne

Robert Parker

97 points

"Representing roughly 75% Kellerberg, 20% Hollerin and 5% Steinertal, and weighing-in at 14% alcohol, the Pichler 2012 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich projects lusciously ripe, brown-spiced peach mingled with both the sweet marzipan-like and the bitterly cyanic sides of almond, as well as with pistachio extract, smoky black tea, and a sweet-saline, iodine-tinged, salivary gland-milking savor akin to lobster shell reduction. Living up to its name while managing to convey animation as well as soothing richness, this reveals a subtly different emphasis with each compulsive sip and wave of finishing flavor. A beautiful tribute to its vintage and cepage, this should reward attention through at least 2028." —David Schildknecht

More about FX Pichler

F.X. Pichler has often been called the greatest winemaker in Austria and is certainly an icon.

His son Lucas Pichler has taken over the estate and continues the tradition of producing mouth-filling, complex wines from their ancient holdings in the Kellerberg and Loibenberg.

The wines can tend towards opulent and exotic but with time open up to new layers. The layers deepen and complicate more, the longer you can keep yourself from drinking it.

Wine Details

Grape Variety

Riesling
Vintage

2012
Size

750ml
Farming Practice

Traditional
Style

Crisp
Sweetness

Dry
Body

Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Pan-roasted turbot or halibut with beurre blanc; roast chicken with morels and cream; Wiener schnitzel with potato salad; lemongrass-scented Thai fish curry; aged Comté or Gruyère.

Tasting Profile

Expect the powerful style of top Wachau Smaragd Riesling: ripe peach, apricot and citrus over a stony, mineral core, with a rich, concentrated body kept taut by bright acidity. It finishes dry and long. These wines are built to age, and with time they typically pick up honeyed, petrol-tinged complexity.