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Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo Riserva, 2004

by Giacomo Borgogno & Figli
$129.99
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A historic Barolo from a benchmark vintage, drinking at peak. Giacomo Borgogno was founded in 1761 — one of the oldest continuously operating estates in Barolo — and sold by the family to the Farinetti family (of Eataly fame) in 2008. The Farinettis have doubled down on the cellar's traditionalist heritage: long macerations, large Slavonian oak botti, extended aging before release. The Riserva is held back for many additional years before bottling. 2004 was a great classical Piedmont vintage — balanced, structured, ageworthy — and the Riserva designation demands a minimum five years of total aging. Twenty-one years on, this is mature Barolo as Nebbiolo lovers know it best: tar, rose, leather, and dried cherry in tertiary harmony.

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Antonio Galloni

91 points

"Borgogno's 2004 Barolo Riserva emerges from the glass with a host of tobacco, smoke, game, licorice and incense. The firm tannins are very much old school, but at the same time, the wine's mid-weight structure is a bit of a departure from the bombastic wines of the past. With air, the 2004 can be enjoyed today, but readers should expect a fairly burly style of Barolo with slightly oxidative notes that have begun to creep in." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2004 Barolo Riserva emerges from the glass with layers of fragrant red berries, flowers and spices. It, too, is representative of the year. Silky tannins frame the perfumed, expressive fruit through to the finish. This is an especially refined style for Borgogno."

Wine Spectator

90 points

"A muscular, compact Barolo, offering meaty aromas of tar, with hints of licorice in the background. A cherry note comes forward with air. Rich on the palate and dense with tannins, this remains monolithic and somewhat closed."

Wine Enthusiast

89 points

"This 2004 Barolo Riserva opens with a brownish-ruby color and aged aromas of dried currants, exotic spice, old leather and root beer. It shows tight but polished tannins and offers a drying mineral edge on the close. Don't wait too much longer to drink this wine."

More about Giacomo Borgogno

Wine Details

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, braised short ribs, wild mushroom risotto, truffle dishes when in season, roasted game birds, or aged Parmigiano and other hard Piedmontese cheeses.

Tasting Profile

Dried rose petal, tar, leather, and sun-dried cherry define the nose. Medium-bodied and dry, with finely resolved tannin, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory finish that signals classical Nebbiolo at full maturity.