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Jacques Lassaigne, Champagne Clos Sainte Sophie Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, 2010

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$259.99
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A walled clos in Champagne is rare enough; this one is the only one in the Aube, cut into the chalk hill of Montgueux outside Troyes. Emmanuel Lassaigne vinifies the parcel entirely on its own as a vintage-dated Blanc de Blancs, off Chardonnay planted between 1968 and 1973 into a site with almost no topsoil, so the roots drive straight down into Cretaceous chalk older than the Cote des Blancs. The regime for this cuvee is used barrels — Cognac casks among them — a blend in tank, then years on the lees in bottle. There's a wonderful story on the label, too: in the nineteenth century Japan sent two men to study at the Clos Sainte-Sophie, a historic site for grafting and horticultural research, and they went home with 100 rootstocks to plant Japan's first vineyard. The emperor decorated the Montgueux grower, who in thanks cultivated a flower, the fleur de Mikado, drawn in 1885 and redrawn for this label. And 2010 is now a genuinely mature bottle of the deep end of grower Champagne: chalk, tension, and no makeup at all.

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Robert Parker

95 points

"Unwinding in the glass with aromas of iodine, citrus oil, dried fruits, peat and sotolon, the 2010 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Clos Sainte-Sophie—the inaugural rendition of this microscopic bottling—is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a chiseled, incisive profile despite its vinous style, concluding with a long and electric finish. Bottled under low pressure, with a correspondingly delicate mousse, this is a unique wine from Emmanuel Lassaigne." —William Kelley

More about Jacques Lassaigne

Emmanuel Lassaigne, the current steward, restored credibility to Montgueux—Champagne's once-forgotten terroir at the region's edge. He ferments with native yeast only, disgorges by hand, and adds minimal sulfur. The fruit-forward, mineral-driven Champagnes he makes feel like the region's secret finally being told.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    Champagne , 2010

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Oysters and the raw bar, turbot in brown butter, roast chicken, or aged Comte.

Tasting Profile

Dry and chalk-driven, with citrus and orchard fruit and the savory, nutty depth that comes with bottle age. Medium bodied, firm acidity, and a long saline finish.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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