Jade Gross, Rioja 'Piano Piano', 2023

Name: Jade Gross, Rioja 'Piano Piano', 2023
Brand: Corkhoarder [TEI] [CORK]
SKU: NYC-TEI] [CORK-`CH23JG201`-070926-3
Price: 89.99 USD
Availability: InStock

Red Wine from Rioja, Spain

by Jade Gross

$89.99

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Piano, piano — Italian for slowly, slowly — was the first wine Jade Gross ever made, and the name doubles as a mission statement. She arrived in Rioja by an unlikely route: raised in Hong Kong, a master's in human rights, then years on the line at Mugaritz and El Celler de Can Roca before trading the pass for the vineyard in 2019. Her Tempranillo quietly argues against most of what Rioja got famous for — no heavy oak, no showy extraction, nothing hurried. What's left is dark cherry and wild flowers with a curl of spice, carried on fine-grained tannin and honest acidity. It's a red that rewards paying attention, which is very much the point.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2023 Piano Piano (90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha Tinta and 5% Viura from San Vicente de la Sonsierra) was harvested early from gravel soils along the Ebro, fermented with 30% whole cluster and aged in 500L barrels. Rather than a lifted, bright profile, it leans into a darker aromatic register. Blackberry and an atypical violet note define the nose, with herbs and discreet oak in support. On the palate, it is dry, juicy and taut, with fine tannins and a light chalky edge. Primary and vivid, it reads as a modern, tension-driven Rioja." —Joaquín Hidalgo

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2023 Piano, Piano was produced with 90% Tempranillo and 5% each Garnacha and Viura from a plot in the paraje of La Liende in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, a field blend planted 43 years ago at 450 meters above sea level on stony soils. She buys the grapes from a grower who sold her the grapes from the first day. The grapes were picked the 8th of September and fermented with 30% full clusters in open-top vat, and the wine matured in 225- and 500-liter French oak barrels, 30% of them new, for 12 months. It has a creamy and exuberant nose with powerful aromas of fruits of the forest and aromatic herbs, with some reminiscences from carbonic maceration, very open and expressive. Apparently, this wine is always like that, open and expressive from day one, while Harrobia is more cerebral and closed. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, with a velvety mouthfeel and fine tannins, still a little oaky. It comes in at 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.72. This was the first wine she produced back in 2019. Give it some more time in bottle. 1,889 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2025." —Luis Gutiérrez