Chassagne premier cru from vines planted in the late 1940s, now with a decade in bottle behind it — the point where white Burgundy of this quality stops being about primary fruit and starts being about texture and depth. Les Vergers sits mid-slope immediately above Les Chenevottes and Les Macherelles, flanking them both, and Jean-Marc Pillot farms just half a hectare there; it is always a standout in his lineup, with a lemon-lime and quinine nose and a minerality that does not sit apart from the fruit so much as fuse with it. Pillot, the fourth generation of his branch of the family in Chassagne, has pushed the domaine into the village's top rank: plowed vineyards, no herbicides, dense planting at 12,000 vines per hectare in the premier crus, hand harvest, then barrel fermentation with a restrained 10–30% new oak, twelve months on the fine lees and six more settling in tank. 2016 was the year of the catastrophic late-April frost, which cost some Chassagne growers well over half their crop; what survived ripened on unburdened vines and made concentrated, classically proportioned whites in tiny quantity. This bottle comes from a private cellar rather than the domaine, and it is drinking beautifully now — open it an hour ahead or decant.