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Jonas Dostert, Elbling Alte Reben, 2024

by Jonas Dostert
$36.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles

Elbling is one of the oldest grapes still in the ground in Europe — the Romans likely carried it up the Moselle — and for most of the last century it was treated as bulk fodder for cheap sparkling wine. Jonas Dostert is one of a small handful of growers making the case that this was never the grape's fault. These are old vines (Alte Reben) on the Obermosel's shell-limestone soils, upriver from the slate country everyone photographs, farmed and vinified with a deliberately light touch. The result is bracing and taut: green apple, lemon pith, wet chalk, and an acidity that arrives like cold water. There is almost no perfume here and enormous drive, which is exactly the point. Elbling isn't trying to charm you. It's trying to make you thirsty.

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More about Jonas Dostert

Very few growers capture the spirit of the German new wave like Jonas Dostert. He produces tiny quantities of electric, profoundly mineral wines from an obscure limestone-rich corner of the Obermosel right on the border with Luxembourg. Through dedicated farming and dialed-in cellar work, Dostert reveals seriously delicious, terroir-transparent wines that redefine the potential of this overlooked region. The wines read like lyrical love letters to his unique home terroir.

Jonas is the third generation of his family to farm these 2.7 hectares of mature Chardonnay, Elbling, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Gris vines around his home village of Nittel. This area is certainly off the beaten path for "classic" German wine but it's a stone's throw from Trier and the famous terroirs of the Saar (a quick 25-minute drive from Nittel to the cellar door of Egon Müller). However, the terroir could not be more different. Instead of slate slopes, the Obermosel is loaded with Kimmeridgian limestone. Nittel has a touch more clay mixed in with limestone marl as well as dolomite—a super hard, magnesium-rich limestone that helps to give the wines their signature lift and cut.

Before returning to his family estate, Jonas spent time working in the aging cellar of Burgundy icon Domaine Leflaive. He resists any facile comparison, winkingly explaining to our friends at Vom Boden: “Go to Burgundy, work with Leflaive for a few months and voilà you can make Leflaive!” Jonas’ wines don’t taste like Leflaive or, for that matter, Burgundy, but he does source barrels from the iconic Puligny estate and his careful use of reduction is extremely poised and confident.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Elbling

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Shellfish, fried fish, charcuterie, fresh cheeses — anything that wants a hard acidic reset.

Tasting Profile

Green apple, lemon pith and wet chalk; bracing acidity, low aromatics, taut and mineral.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!