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Julien Sunier, Morgon, 2012

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A Flatiron favorite for years, Julien Sunier makes some of the most refined Cru Beaujolais around, with a cool, higher-elevation style that gives his Gamay real tension and florality. He learned his craft working for Burgundy legend Christophe Roumier, then took to Beaujolais, farming naturally and vinifying in traditional semi-carbonic fashion. Morgon is the most structured of the crus, built on iron-rich schist and known for darker fruit and grip, which means it carries age better than most Gamay. At well over a decade old, this is a mature bottle from a private collection, leaning into earthy, secondary complexity rather than primary fruit. Decant gently and enjoy in the near term.

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Antonio Galloni

91 points

"Bright violet color. Vibrant, mineral-laced red berry and floral pastille scents, along with hints of succulent herbs and blood orange. Juicy, focused and light on its feet, offering intense, refreshingly bitter-edged raspberry and redcurrant flavors. Fine-grained tannins give shape to the finish, which lingers with excellent persistence and an echo of candied rose." —Josh Raynolds

Robert Parker

92 points

"The 2012 Morgon comes from the lieux-dits of “Corcelette” and “Les Charmes” (1.45 hectares), the vines around 60 years old. It is aged entirely in wooden barrels for around 11 months. Served from magnum, it has a pure bouquet of vibrant red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit – delicate and poised, but perhaps not quite as engaging as the Regnie. The palate is medium-bodied, taut and refined and angular at the moment. Yet one has to stand back and admire its transparency and poise, the finish deceptively long in the mouth. This tensile Morgon should give much pleasure over the next decade. Drink now-2022." —Neal Martin

More about Julien Sunier

Julien Sunier abandoned a corporate future to make natural wine in Beaujolais, and the results are deft, clean, and haunting. His Cru Beaujolais—Morgon, Fleurie, Régnié—speak to higher elevation and old vines. Long macerations in neutral wood yield wines that feel ethereal but built to age.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay

  • Vintage

    2012

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised short ribs, coq au vin, aged hard cheeses, or roasted game birds.

Tasting Profile

A mature Gamay showing dried dark fruit, earth, and savory undertones over what was once firmer Morgon structure. Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and softened tannins. Complex and resolved; drink now.