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Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine L D'Or, 2009

White Wine from Loire, France
$115.99
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The ripest and friendliest of these five, and the best place to start if you have never drunk a seventeen-year-old Muscadet. Luneau-Papin, in Le Landreau, is one of the greatest addresses in Muscadet — up there with Pépière, Bregeon and Landron — and "L d'Or" is the family's flagship: old vines on a narrow vein of granite and two-mica gneiss off the Armorican Massif, native-yeast fermented and left unracked on its fine lees in underground glass-tiled vats before bottling sur lie. Low alcohol, high natural acidity, no oak and long lees contact are what let a wine like this go two decades and pick up quince, hazelnut and beeswax on the way — the reason the cuvée has been the appellation's ageing benchmark since the late 1990s. 2009 escaped the spring frosts, ran warm and dry through summer, and finished with a fine, warm September; Muscadets came in richer than usual, and this one is broad and sunny where the 2007 and 2008 are taut. It drinks wonderfully now with a good decade still in front of it. Serve cool, not cold, in a proper glass.

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More about Luneau-Papin

There has been a true revolution of quality minded producers in Muscadet over the past couple of decades, and the Domaine Luneau-Papin has always been a leader in this movement.

Indeed, their long partnership with famed importers Joe Dressner and Denyse Louis was a catalyst for bringing Muscadet to the cusp of popularity among wine "geekdom" across the U.S. But don't get caught thinking that Luneau-Papin is "new". The Domaine has been in existance for 2 centuries. Today, Pierre-Marie Luneau manages the vineyards and cellar, having taken over for his father in 2011.

Everything that Pierre-Marie does is meant to continue the tradition of quality at the estate. All the grapes are hand-harvested (not common in the region), farming is sustainable and the work in the cellar is very old-school. They use CO2 to preserve the freshness of the wine, and age the cuvées in underground, cement tanks.

Pierre-Marie is obsessed with the wide range of unique terroir and geology that his region possesses. If you visit he'll likely take you up to the top of a hilly vineyard to survey the land and point out all the different types of ancient rock.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Melon de Bourgogne

  • Vintage

    2009

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork loin with apples, chicken in cream and mushrooms, or crab cakes. Also very good with a slab of aged Comté or a bowl of moules marinière.

Tasting Profile

Golden. Ripe pear, yellow apple, orange peel and toasted almond over a stony core. Medium-bodied and generous in texture, with acidity that is present but rounded by the vintage's ripeness. Dry, with a saline, nutty finish.

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Loire Valley Wines

The Loire Valley is France’s greatest source of value for anyone looking for elegant, terroir-driven wines. Our collection celebrates the region’s great diversity, with the mineral-driven whites of Muscadet and Sancerre, the beautiful Chenin Blancs and Cabernet Francs from villages like Vouvray and Chinon, and natural wines from everywhere in the region. Sometimes wonderfully fresh and gulpable, sometimes serious and age-worthy, the prices are always very reasonable.

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