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Rovellotti, Colline Novaresi Vespolina 'Ronco al Maso', 2023

$29.99
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Vespolina from the hills between the Po Valley and the Alps—a varietal that demands serious terroir and doesn't tolerate shortcuts. Rovellotti's entry to their range shows why this ancient grape is experiencing a renaissance. Hand-harvested, naturally fermented in stainless steel, and briefly aged in bottle for freshness. The result swings between red fruit brightness and savory pepper spice, designed for the table, not the cellar.

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Antonio Galloni

80 points

"The 2023 Colline Novaresi Vespolina Ronco al Maso is floral and aromatic, but it's also penalized by astringent, overpowering vegetal notes. Two bottles tasted." —Antonio Galloni

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More about Rovellotti

Few producers live inside their history quite like Rovellotti: the family's cellars are tucked into Ghemme's Ricetto, a walled compound dating to the 10th century, and the wines age underground there in decades-old botti. The Rovellottis have been in Ghemme since at least the late 15th century; Antonello Rovellotti likes to point out that of the fewer than 200 people in the world who carry his surname, 66 live in and around the town.

Ghemme is one of the small Alto Piemonte appellations in the hills north of Barolo and Barbaresco, where Nebbiolo goes by its local name, Spanna. The family farms 15 hectares in Ghemme's Baraggiola subzone, and since the 1980s has worked with the University of Milan's agriculture faculty with the goal of using no chemicals at all in the vineyards. Nebbiolo leads, with Vespolina, Uva Rara and a little white Erbaluce for a sweet passito.

Two vineyards anchor the Ghemme range: Chioso dei Pomi, recognized as a prime site since the 1600s, and Costa del Salmino, source of the Riserva. Rovellotti is one of our favorite finds in Neal Rosenthal's Alto Piemonte portfolio. Expect perfumed, high-toned, firmly structured mountain Nebbiolo built for the cellar, while the Vespolina 'Ronco al Maso' is the bright, peppery wine for tonight.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Vespolina

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Rosenthal Wine Merchant has to say about this wine:

Vespolina plays the primary supporting role to the great Nebbiolo-based wines of the Alto Piemonte. Rovellotti’s Vespolina hails from is a 0.4 hectare plot in the Ronco al Maso vineyard, with full southern exposure in the commune of Ghemme. The grapes are harvested in the third week of September. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel to preserve the zesty, fresh, wild berry fruit of the grape, with an eight day maceration on the skins, giving the wine a fine and distinct tannic structure. The wine then spends three months in botti, and is bottled the spring following harvest. Enjoy with a light chill!

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Cured meats, pizza, grilled vegetables, mushroom risotto, tomato-based pasta dishes

Tasting Profile

Macerated rose, fresh red berries, white pepper, spice. Clean, dry, aromatic. Medium body, crisp acidity.