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Stephane Bernaudeau, Vin de France Les Ongles, 2021

White Wine from Loire, France
$199.00
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Les Onglés is named for the frozen fingers you get working it. The vineyard is a cold spot, a gentle south-west-facing schist slope that looks across at Les Nourrissons. That chill shows up in the numbers: this is dry Chenin Blanc at just 11.5% alcohol. Stéphane Bernaudeau worked alongside Mark Angeli at La Ferme de la Sansonnière for almost twenty years, then left to focus full time on his own roughly three hectares near Martigné-Briand. There he farms biodynamically, works the vines entirely by horse and makes nothing but dry Chenin. The 2021 spent a year in barrels four to ten years old, went through malolactic and was bottled with a low 40mg/l of total sulphur. Like everything he makes, it's a single-parcel Vin de France, because he'd rather the wine speak for itself than answer to the appellation. If you want to see what the fuss over Bernaudeau is about, start here.

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More about Stephane Bernaudeau

The dark schist hillsides of Anjou have become the source of some of the most sought-after dry Chenin Blanc in France, and Stéphane Bernaudeau is one of the names that put them there. His wines are tiny in quantity, intensely mineral and built to age, and they have gone fully cult.

Bernaudeau learned his trade over many years alongside Mark Angeli at La Ferme de la Sansonnière, where dry Chenin gets the kind of obsessive attention usually reserved for sweet wine. Today he farms about three hectares around Martigné-Briand, above the Layon, biodynamically and entirely by horse, with old vines trained as gobelets rather than on wires.

Each parcel becomes its own wine. Les Nourrissons is the treasure: 0.7 hectares of Chenin planted in 1910 on schist and clay, which he took over from a respected local grower. Les Ongles comes from two hectares of roughly thirty-year-old vines on schist, and Les Coqueries, first made in 2019, from a parcel at Thouarcé. In the cellar it's a vertical press, spontaneous fermentation in used barrels and foudres, and as much time as the wine needs. Everything is labeled Vin de France by choice.

Expect Chenin with density and real cut: saline, taut and long, and rewarding of patience and a decanter.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chenin Blanc

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Natural

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters, grilled sea bass with lemon, roast chicken, fresh goat's cheese, or pork rillettes on toast.

Tasting Profile

Dry, crisp, medium-bodied Chenin Blanc, light on its feet at 11.5% alcohol.

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Loire Valley Wines

The Loire Valley is France’s greatest source of value for anyone looking for elegant, terroir-driven wines. Our collection celebrates the region’s great diversity, with the mineral-driven whites of Muscadet and Sancerre, the beautiful Chenin Blancs and Cabernet Francs from villages like Vouvray and Chinon, and natural wines from everywhere in the region. Sometimes wonderfully fresh and gulpable, sometimes serious and age-worthy, the prices are always very reasonable.

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