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Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett AP #03, 2007

$49.99
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Here's a rare chance to taste what a delicate, early-picked Mosel Kabinett does with a decade and a half or more in bottle, from one of Brauneberg's great estates. Fritz Haag makes its Juffer Kabinett from an early-picked selection of fruit, aiming for a fine, delicate structure. The house calls it a naturally sweet Kabinett in the classic Mosel style. The Juffer is on blue Devonian slate on a very steep, south-facing hillside across the river from the village, a few kilometres upstream from Bernkastel. It wraps around the warmer Juffer-Sonnenuhr and gives lighter, more graceful wines, which is exactly what you want from Kabinett. The name has a good story behind it: it comes from the three daughters of the aristocrat Kammerherr Wunderlich, who never married and took over the vineyard from their father. Oliver Haag owns the estate and makes the wine, growing nothing but Riesling. Kabinett is often treated as Riesling's everyday tier, so a mature bottle like this is something we don't come across often.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"Black cherry and lemon oil on the nose. Tropical fruits studded with a hint of nutmeg enliven the palate. The finish offers appealing balance." —Joel B. Payne

Robert Parker

90 points

"Higher residual sweetness brings out musk melon, nectarine, and ripe pear on the nose and palate of the Fritz Haag 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, as well as a honeyed cast. Grapefruit acids lend refreshment in what is otherwise a rather softly-textured, soothing finish. While polished and classy – and certainly capable of 15 or more years’ aging – this misses the complexity and invigoration as well as the versatility at table of the feinberb version. This bottling, incidentally, will probably be labeled next year simply as “Brauneberger Kabinett,” as the Haags want to simplify their labeling, as well as leave open the option of incorporating some fruit from their “pre-harvest” thinning of the Juffer-Sonnenuhr." —David Schildknecht

Jancis Robinson

16 points

"Slightly funky note on the nose. Straightforward and funky but not that charming. A little bit hard. Lots of lemon sherbet character. Fresh and zingy. Though not desperately long." —Jancis Robinson MW

More about Fritz Haag

Fritz Haag's vineyards sit along the slopes of the Brauneberger hill and the vineyards of Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Brauneberger, named for the light brown slate that is the dominant soil type here, faces almost entirely south which makes it a bit easier to get fully ripe Riesling in the classically cold, wet Mosel. That has changed a bit recently of course, but this is still a prized site for wines that perfectly balance finesse and power, complexity and airy drinkability.

Like all the top Mosel producers, Fritz Haag produces a range of wines including some very rich, late harvest dessert wines. These wines put the region on the map for luxury wine in the 17 and 1800s, making some Mosel Riesling more pricey and coveted than first growth Bordeaux. But in truth the wines that the locals drank, especially in the summer, were generally off dry to completely bone dry.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2007

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Smoked trout on rye with horseradish cream; Vietnamese summer rolls with nuoc cham; pork schnitzel with a lightly dressed potato salad; Thai green papaya salad with less chili than usual; glazed ham.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Mosel Kabinett profile: light-bodied and delicate, with peach, green apple and citrus over the smoky, flinty slate character the house is known for. Gentle off-dry sweetness is balanced by bright, racy acidity. With bottle age the style typically picks up honeyed and petrol-tinged notes, and it finishes clean and long.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!