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Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Goldkapsel Auslese Auction AP #13, 2004 (375ml)

Dessert Wine from Mosel, Germany
$109.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
A gold-capsule Auslese from the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr, bottled as an auction wine and now two decades old: this is collectible Mosel sweet wine, and the kind of bottle people cellar German Riesling for. The Juffer-Sonnenuhr ("sundial") is the steepest, most south-facing stretch of the Brauneberg hillside. It's the choice centre cut of a steep blue-slate slope that has been a top site since the Romans first grew grapes in the Mosel. Napoleon is said to have called the Juffer vineyards pearls of the Mosel, and in 1925 the village changed its name from Dusemond to Brauneberg ("brown mountain") to promote them. The Haags still keep the old name in the estate's "Dusemonder Hof" designation. The estate was first documented in 1605 and plants nothing but Riesling. This 2004 comes from the year before Oliver Haag took over from his father Wilhelm, whose motto was that quality is the only path. The 375ml bottle is the right size for a dessert course shared around the table.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Golden yellow. Sumptuous aromas of peach skin, ripe apricot and clove waft over a hint of smoky botrytis. The rich, dense passion fruit flavor is creamy and silky but at the same time enlivened by an ethereal minerality. This is fruit concentration with angel's wings and one of the finer efforts of the vintage." —Joel B. Payne

Robert Parker

97 points

"This year’s auction lot 2004 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #13 incorporates the tiny amount of fruit that was collected for Beerenauslese but subsequently deemed insufficient in volume. Even so, the combined lot was too tiny for a cask and was vinified in stainless steel. It smells of peach jam, mango, and melon. A well of honeyed, brown spice-tinged pit fruit, tropical fruit, and melon pools on the palate. A mineral as well as mysteriously carnal complexity lurks beneath this wine’s deep pool of fruit. The texture is somewhere between custardy and doughy, yet this preserves the elegance and refinement that are watchwords of the entire vintage. The finish offers no end of layers and dynamic interplay of animal, fruit, and mineral. It builds from a sort of organ pedal point of nutty, meaty, stony depth through gloriously rich middle registers of chutney-like nut paste, spice and fruit concentrates, to high-toned distilled fruit, floral and citric notes of piercing clarity. This wine should effortlessly make it to mid-century." —David Schildknecht

More about Fritz Haag

Fritz Haag's vineyards sit along the slopes of the Brauneberger hill and the vineyards of Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Brauneberger, named for the light brown slate that is the dominant soil type here, faces almost entirely south which makes it a bit easier to get fully ripe Riesling in the classically cold, wet Mosel. That has changed a bit recently of course, but this is still a prized site for wines that perfectly balance finesse and power, complexity and airy drinkability.

Like all the top Mosel producers, Fritz Haag produces a range of wines including some very rich, late harvest dessert wines. These wines put the region on the map for luxury wine in the 17 and 1800s, making some Mosel Riesling more pricey and coveted than first growth Bordeaux. But in truth the wines that the locals drank, especially in the summer, were generally off dry to completely bone dry.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    375ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Foie gras torchon with brioche; Stilton or Roquefort; tarte Tatin or apricot tart; crème brûlée.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic gold-capsule Mosel Auslese profile: ripe peach, apricot and citrus peel layered with honey and a smoky slate minerality, plus the petrol and dried-fruit notes that mature Riesling develops with bottle age. It is rich and concentrated but never heavy, because vibrant acidity balances the sweetness and carries it to a long, clean finish.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines