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Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese AP #05, 2007

$59.99
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A Mosel Spätlese with nearly two decades in the bottle, from one of the Middle Mosel's benchmark estates — this is the stage where fruity Riesling stops tasting sweet and starts tasting complex. The Brauneberger Juffer is a directly south-facing wall of weathered slate whose iron-oxide veins turn the stone light brown (hence Brauneberg), an exposure that lets Riesling ripen fully even in the cold, wet Mosel. The name is worth knowing too: 'Juffer' means maiden, after the three unmarried daughters of the aristocrat Kammerherr Wunderlich who took over the vineyard from their father, and the site's wines were treasured by Napoleon. Oliver Haag, who took over from his father Wilhelm in 2005, farms 17.5 hectares here planted entirely to Riesling, and the Juffer Spätlese is made simply: gentle handling, spontaneous fermentation, extended time on the fine lees. Wines like this reward patience, which is exactly why a mature bottle is worth seeking out. Off-dry, not dessert-sweet; the sweetness rides on acidity rather than sitting on top of it.

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Robert Parker

90 points

"The Willi Haag 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese A.P. #5 suggests a distillate of green herbs in the nose, but with peach, honeydew melon, and rowan berry lending a luscious aspect whose promise is fulfilled on an infectiously juicy, lush, subtly creamy palate. Whiffs of smoke in the nose and saline, savory, and wet-stone finishing suggestions add complexity to a wine that should be worth revisiting over at least the next 10-12 years."

Wine Spectator

92 points

"A lush, polished version, whose orange-scented introduction gives way to apricot, mango and mineral notes. It's rich for '07, with a jellied fruit aftertaste. Drink now through 2030."

More about Fritz Haag

Fritz Haag's vineyards sit along the slopes of the Brauneberger hill and the vineyards of Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Brauneberger, named for the light brown slate that is the dominant soil type here, faces almost entirely south which makes it a bit easier to get fully ripe Riesling in the classically cold, wet Mosel. That has changed a bit recently of course, but this is still a prized site for wines that perfectly balance finesse and power, complexity and airy drinkability.

Like all the top Mosel producers, Fritz Haag produces a range of wines including some very rich, late harvest dessert wines. These wines put the region on the map for luxury wine in the 17 and 1800s, making some Mosel Riesling more pricey and coveted than first growth Bordeaux. But in truth the wines that the locals drank, especially in the summer, were generally off dry to completely bone dry.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2007

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork belly with apple, Thai green curry, Sichuan dan dan noodles, smoked trout with horseradish cream, or a plate of aged Comté and Roquefort.

Tasting Profile

Aromas of baked apple, apricot, honey and lemon oil, with the petrol and wet-stone notes that come with age on Mosel Riesling. Light-bodied and low in alcohol, with clear residual sweetness balanced by bright, cutting acidity. Slate-driven and long on the finish, ending more fresh than sweet.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!