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Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese AP #09, 2004 (375ml)

$45.99
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This is sweet Mosel Riesling from the Brauneberg's prime slope with twenty years already behind it, so the waiting has been done for you. The Juffer-Sonnenuhr ("sundial") is the steepest, most south-facing part of the Brauneberg hillside. People have prized this slope since the Romans planted the Mosel, and the Brauneberg vineyards are counted among the pearls of the Mosel and were treasured even by Napoleon. In 1925 the village of Dusemond went as far as renaming itself Brauneberg, "brown mountain," after the colour of its slate, to make the most of that reputation. The deep slate soils and the wines' pronounced acidity account for how well they age, and acidity is what keeps an Auslese fresh rather than syrupy for decades. The 2004 dates from Wilhelm Haag's time in charge, the last vintage before his son Oliver took over in 2005. The 375ml bottle is the right amount for sharing over a dessert course or cheese plate.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Pale golden yellow. Rich bouquet of candied apricot, ginger and nut oil, with just a whiff of botrytis. The rich, juicy pineapple fruit and crisp slate give verve to the wine's subtle, creamy texture. Wonderfully balanced wine with considerable promise, this one ends with a seductive brown spice character." —Joel B. Payne

Robert Parker

95 points

"The 2004 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #9 consists of a selection of very tiny and in small measure botrytised berries. Smelling of peach jam and fresh lemon, this comes onto the palate with meaty, low toned richness, like a medley of veal stock, honey-drenched toasted nuts, and spice-tinged caramelized pit fruits. A lavishly creamy texture is pit against insistently bright citrus, yet the flavor marriage is harmonious and the long finish ultra-pure, elegant and without heaviness. The layering of honey, caramelized and fresh fruits, citrus, and slate displayed is surely worthy of three decade’s worth of archeological investigation." —David Schildknecht

Wine Spectator

96 points

"Rich and concentrated, yet it seems lighter than air, ideal for its dried apricot, roasted almond, candied citrus and mineral flavors. Though sweet and intense, it finishes cleanly, with a mouthwatering acidity. Best from 2008 through 2030."

More about Fritz Haag

Fritz Haag's vineyards sit along the slopes of the Brauneberger hill and the vineyards of Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Brauneberger, named for the light brown slate that is the dominant soil type here, faces almost entirely south which makes it a bit easier to get fully ripe Riesling in the classically cold, wet Mosel. That has changed a bit recently of course, but this is still a prized site for wines that perfectly balance finesse and power, complexity and airy drinkability.

Like all the top Mosel producers, Fritz Haag produces a range of wines including some very rich, late harvest dessert wines. These wines put the region on the map for luxury wine in the 17 and 1800s, making some Mosel Riesling more pricey and coveted than first growth Bordeaux. But in truth the wines that the locals drank, especially in the summer, were generally off dry to completely bone dry.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    375ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Foie gras torchon with quince paste; apricot or tarte Tatin-style pear tart; Stilton or Roquefort with walnuts; aged Comté; mildly spiced Thai dishes like a coconut curry with mango.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic mature Mosel Auslese profile: ripe peach, apricot and honey, often with a touch of botrytis, plus the petrol, dried-fruit and slaty mineral notes that come with bottle age. Typically rich but light-bodied, with racy acidity that keeps the sweetness fresh rather than syrupy and carries through to a long, honeyed finish.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!