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Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese AP #13, 2004

Dessert Wine from Mosel, Germany
$79.99
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This 2004 Auslese is a sweet Riesling from Fritz Haag's Juffer-Sonnenuhr that has already spent two decades in bottle, which spares you the cellaring. The Juffer-Sonnenuhr sits on blue slate, and Haag uses it for its GG and for its Prädikat wines from Spätlese upward. Napoleon counted it, along with the neighbouring Juffer, among the pearls of the Mosel. The name has a story behind it: "Juffer" is local dialect for "old maid." It dates to 1790 and refers to the three daughters of the aristocratic owner, Kammerherr Wunderlich. None of them married, and together they took over running the vineyards from their father. This 2004 comes from the Wilhelm Haag years, the last vintage before his son Oliver took over in 2005, and Wilhelm's guiding belief was that quality is the only path to one's goals. The house credits the slate and the pronounced acidity for how long its wines age, so a mature Auslese like this is worth picking up when you find one.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Golden yellow. Sumptuous aromas of peach skin, ripe apricot and clove waft over a hint of smoky botrytis. The rich, dense passion fruit flavor is creamy and silky but at the same time enlivened by an ethereal minerality. This is fruit concentration with angel's wings and one of the finer efforts of the vintage." —Joel B. Payne

Robert Parker

97 points

"This year’s auction lot 2004 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #13 incorporates the tiny amount of fruit that was collected for Beerenauslese but subsequently deemed insufficient in volume. Even so, the combined lot was too tiny for a cask and was vinified in stainless steel. It smells of peach jam, mango, and melon. A well of honeyed, brown spice-tinged pit fruit, tropical fruit, and melon pools on the palate. A mineral as well as mysteriously carnal complexity lurks beneath this wine’s deep pool of fruit. The texture is somewhere between custardy and doughy, yet this preserves the elegance and refinement that are watchwords of the entire vintage. The finish offers no end of layers and dynamic interplay of animal, fruit, and mineral. It builds from a sort of organ pedal point of nutty, meaty, stony depth through gloriously rich middle registers of chutney-like nut paste, spice and fruit concentrates, to high-toned distilled fruit, floral and citric notes of piercing clarity. This wine should effortlessly make it to mid-century." —David Schildknecht

More about Fritz Haag

Fritz Haag's vineyards sit along the slopes of the Brauneberger hill and the vineyards of Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Brauneberger, named for the light brown slate that is the dominant soil type here, faces almost entirely south which makes it a bit easier to get fully ripe Riesling in the classically cold, wet Mosel. That has changed a bit recently of course, but this is still a prized site for wines that perfectly balance finesse and power, complexity and airy drinkability.

Like all the top Mosel producers, Fritz Haag produces a range of wines including some very rich, late harvest dessert wines. These wines put the region on the map for luxury wine in the 17 and 1800s, making some Mosel Riesling more pricey and coveted than first growth Bordeaux. But in truth the wines that the locals drank, especially in the summer, were generally off dry to completely bone dry.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Foie gras torchon with apricot chutney; roast duck with a quince or plum glaze; tarte tatin made with apricots or pears; Roquefort or Stilton with walnuts; mildly spiced Thai dishes like a pork belly red curry.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Mosel Auslese profile: ripe peach, apricot and citrus with honeyed sweetness, lifted by racy acidity and a distinct slatey minerality. It's typically rich and concentrated but still light on its feet. With age, the style tends to pick up dried fruit, deeper honey and Riesling's famous petrol note, and it finishes long and sweet but clean.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines