Ruchottes-Chambertin is one of the smallest of Gevrey's Grand Crus — only 3.3 hectares exist, and Mugneret-Gibourg holds just 0.64 of them. The parcel sits high on the slope at the mouth of the Combe de Lavaux on thin, stony soil packed with rock, which drains hard and builds the structure and lift that set this wine apart. Henri Jayer called it "a Chambertin raised in Vosne," which is exactly right: Grand Cru Gevrey power delivered with the perfume and silk of the Vosne side of the Côte. Sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée now run the domaine whose father, Georges, bought this parcel in 1977; the fruit is fully destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged around 15 months in barrel before bottling unfined and unfiltered. 2014 is a classic, cool-edged Côte de Nuits vintage — less flesh than 2012, more precision — and at a dozen years old this back-vintage bottle is just moving into its window, with plenty of road ahead.