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Markus Molitor, Riesling Alte Reben White Capsule, 2022

$46.99
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The capsule tells you everything the label doesn't: on Markus Molitor's bottles white means dry, green means off-dry and gold means sweet, and this one is white, so it is a genuinely dry Riesling. The fruit comes from his oldest vines, eighty to a hundred years old, on the steep slate slopes strung between Brauneberg and Traben-Trarbach in the Middle Mosel. Molitor took over the family estate in 1984 at the age of twenty and grew a few hectares into roughly a hundred across the steepest terraces of the Mosel and Saar, working with hand harvests, ambient yeasts and old wooden casks in a cellar carved three levels into the slate. Here the grapes get a few hours on their skins before a spontaneous fermentation and a long rest on the lees, which gives the wine breadth alongside the cut. 2022 was hot and desperately dry until autumn rain and cool nights arrived to stretch the harvest out, and Mosel Riesling came in ripe but bright. Serve it cool rather than ice-cold and it will run right through dinner.

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Robert Parker

93 points

"Sourced from old vines in diverse top sites of the middle Mosel, the 2022 Riesling Alte Reben (White Capsule) opens with a dense and rich nose of super ripe and partly tropical fruits intermingled with oily notes of crushed slate and lemon rind. Silky, crystalline and tight on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, very intense, still edgy and youthful Riesling with crystalline and playful acidity as well as the typical slate finesse of the Mosel's top sites. The finish is remarkably long and complex yet also powerful. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork." —Stephan Reinhardt

Wine Spectator

91 points

"Shows classic Mosel Riesling character, with lemon-lime raciness cut with petrol, smoke and crushed slate. Firm and chiseled on the bone-dry palate, with savory details of dried herbs, celery seed, dried grasses and tea leaves, plus a blast of alpine herbs. Silky in feel, with a bitter quinine note on the finish, sewn up with chalk-fine mineral. Drink now through 2033."

More about Markus Molitor

Markus Molitor is the Mosel's great one-man empire, and to know his wines, all you need is a color code. Molitor doesn't belong to the VDP. He uses his own system, where the capsule tells you the style: white for dry, green for off-dry and gold for sweet. That matters, because his Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese come in all three.

Markus took over the family estate in 1984, aged twenty, with about a hectare and a half of vines. He is the eighth generation of his family to grow wine. Since then he has built it into one of the largest family-run estates on the Mosel. He owns steep slate vineyards in some of the Middle Mosel's great sites, including Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten and the home vineyard Wehlener Klosterberg, plus holdings on the Saar. Nearly all of it is on steep to very steep slopes, harvested by hand. The wines ferment with their own yeasts and age on the lees in traditional Fuder casks in a cellar cut into the Klosterberg slate.

The range is huge, with dozens of Rieslings each vintage, plus Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and a Riesling Sekt. Expect concentrated, deeply mineral Riesling built for the long haul. The starred Auslesen and gold-capsule wines can age for decades.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme, pork schnitzel, trout with brown butter and almonds, or a plate of charcuterie with aged Gouda.

Tasting Profile

Aromas of yellow peach, apricot and white flowers over a smoky slate edge. Dry and medium-bodied, with taut acidity and a faint herbal bite. The finish is long and stony.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!