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Laherte Freres, Champagne Ultradition Extra Brut [base 2023], NV

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$61.99
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The Ultradition is the front door to one of Champagne's most restless grower houses, and Laherte calls it a "return to basics." From a family that splits its holdings into 15 separately vinified terroirs in the village of Chavot alone, basics still means a lot of care. The house blends all three of Champagne's grape varieties, from vineyards in the Vallée de la Marne and the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay, just south of Épernay. For an entry-level cuvée, this bottle punches above its station. The farming is biodynamic, the grapes are picked by hand, and as an Extra Brut the dosage stays lean. The house sums it up in three words: "Mineral & crunchy." This release is built on the 2023 base, and it's an accessible way into grower Champagne from a family that has been at it since 1889.

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Antonio Galloni

90 points

"The NV Extra Brut Ultradition is a very pretty, gracious wine consisting of a blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from eight vineyard sources. Perfumed floral and spice notes give the Ultradition lovely brightness to match its mid-weight, notably vinous personality. Orchard fruit, chamomile, dried herbs, mint and crushed rocks are all wonderfully expressive, if a bit light. This is an especially nuanced edition. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter."

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More about Laherte Freres

A grower Champagne house in Chavot, founded in 1889 and now run by Aurélien Laherte, who took over in 2005. The family works about 10.5 hectares split into more than 75 parcels, some farmed biodynamically and the rest organically or sustainably. Much of the wine is fermented in barrels and foudres, and single-vineyard cuvées are vinified separately in used Burgundy barrels. These wines speak for themselves: no flash, real terroir.

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Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay , Pinot Meunier , Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Polaner Selections has to say about this wine:

Appellation
Coteaux Sud d'Epernay
Wine Type
Sparkling
Varietals
Blend
Varietal Notes
60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir
Vineyard
From 10 villages, in the Côteaux Sud d’Epernay, Vallée de la Marne and Montagne de Reims; avg 30-year-old vines.
Orientation
Multiple parcels, varied exposure.
Soil
Clay-limestone soils with marnes, chalky sub-soils.
Viticulture
Farmed in a sustainable manner and influenced by ecological methods with a strong emphasis on biodiverstiy.
Vinification
Traditionally pressed. Alcoholic fermentation in foudres and barrels with regular stirring of the lees, partial malolactic fermentation. Aged sur lie for 7 months before bottling. 50% reserve wines aged in concrete tanks. No filtration.

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters with mignonette, gougères, salt-cod fritters, fried chicken, salmon or yellowtail sashimi, aged Comté

Tasting Profile

Expect a crisp, mineral style of grower Champagne: green apple and citrus from the Chardonnay, a touch of red fruit from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and hints of brioche. Fine, lively bubbles and bright, chalky acidity carry a lean, dry palate, and the light Extra Brut dosage keeps the finish clean, crunchy and refreshing.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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