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Quinta de Lemos, Dao Tinto Dona Santana, 2008

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We will cross every mountain for the wines of Quinta de Lemos. In Portugal's old and great Dao region, the Serra da Estrela and Serra do Caramulo ranges shield the vineyards from Atlantic damp on one side and inland heat on the other, and this estate sits high on a plateau to catch the full benefit of that balance. The Dona Santana is a Touriga Nacional-led red, filled out with Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrocheiro, aged in French oak. This 2008 is a back-vintage gem with real maturity on it, the kind of aged Portuguese red that overdelivers. Decant and serve with a substantial meal.

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Robert Parker

89 points

"The 2008 DONA SANTANA is 60% Touriga Nacional, 20% Tinta Roriz and 20% Jaen, all aged in oak for 18 months. Showing some of the same, crisp edges as the ‘08 Tinta Roriz, this has some tartness on the finish and considerable power there, too. Pointed and focused, it is absorbing the oak well, but there is still that overlay that needs to dissipate. With a couple of hours of aeration, it is absorbed fairly well, a good sign. This should hold well, but it does need to answer some questions in the cellar. It is very astringent. It runs around 24 euros in Portugal." —Mark Squires

More about

There's a lot of talk about “mountain wine”. You might wonder why we care so much. In the past we've mentioned cooler conditions and slopes that face the sun.

In the Dão, however — one of Portugal’s oldest, greatest wine regions — the Serra da Estrala and Serra do Caramulo ranges demonstrate another useful role mountains play: as barriers. From the west, they shield the vineyards from the difficulties that the Atlantic Ocean can bring, such as humidity and rain. On the east, the mountains separate them from the extremely hot and dry conditions that you find inland. The result is a climate in perfect balance — something the prescient Romans discovered thousands of years ago and that winemakers continue to exploit today.

Including the Quinta de Lemos. This Quinta takes full advantage of the region’s mountains, sitting in the middle of the valley but high up on a plateau to achieve the full benefits of altitude. The conditions are ideal for producing olives, honey and, what interests us today, delicious wine.

De Lemos takes full advantage of another great thing about this valley: it is filled with wonderful indigenous grape varieties that you will find virtually nowhere else. Today’s wine is made up of three: Touriga Nacional (which you have probably heard of because it is used to make Port), Jaen (a.k.a. Mencía) and Alfrocheiro. Blending is a local tradition, as each brings its own vital component to the wine: spice (Touriga Nacional), a splash of dark fruit (Alfrocheiro), and freshness (Jaen).

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Tinta Roriz , Touriga Franca

  • Vintage

    2008

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast lamb, grilled chops, braised beef, duck, or aged cheeses. Classic with hearty Portuguese and Mediterranean fare.

Tasting Profile

Mature dark fruit with violet, dried herbs and earth. Full-bodied, softened tannins, fresh acidity, long savory finish.