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Vilmart et Cie, Champagne Brut Grand Cellier [Oenotheque T14] 1er Cru, NV [Base 2013]

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
by Vilmart et Cie
$149.99
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Vilmart's calling card, held back in the cellar and disgorged years later than usual. Grand Cellier is the non-vintage cuvee from one of grower Champagne's great houses, in Premier Cru Rilly-la-Montagne on the Montagne de Reims — roughly 70% Chardonnay to 30% Pinot Noir, fermented and raised in large old oak foudres rather than steel, which is where its unusually winey, textural feel comes from. This Oenotheque release was drawn from a 2013 base with about half reserve wine from 2012 and 2011; the "T14" marks the 2014 tirage, and the bottle then sat on its lees until disgorgement in May 2020, finished at a tight seven grams of dosage. Because Vilmart blocks malolactic fermentation, all that oak and lees richness stays wired to a sharp, electric acidity, which is why these wines draw comparisons to high-end white Burgundy as often as to Champagne. The result is a bottle with the toast and depth of something much older and the tension of something much younger. Pour it in white-wine glasses, not flutes, and give it a few minutes in the glass.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The NV Brut Grand Cellier Oenothèque T14 is a late-disgorged release of the 2013 (bottled in 2014, hence the name), with a few additional years on the lees. A Champagne of dimension and class, the T14 is seriously beautiful. Its interplay of texture and ethereal aromatic presence is simply beguiling."

Robert Parker

93 points

"Vilmart's NV Grand Cellier Oenotheque T14, representing the 2014 tirage, was bottled in 2014 with a base vintage of 2013, supplemented by 50% reserve wines from 2012 and 2011. Disgorged in April 2021 with a dosage of seven grams per liter, this late release of Grand Cellier is a typical blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. It bursts from the glass with an enticing bouquet of candied pear, toasted nuts and spices, mingling with tangerine zest. The palate is full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with good cut and grip and a generous core of fruit. Rich and gourmand in style, it showcases the transformative impact of post-disgorgement maturation on the cuvée."

More about Vilmart et Cie

Vilmart is on the Burgundian end of the Champagne spectrum. Older examples of his top wines come to taste a lot like a mature Chevalier-Montrachet with fermentation and aging in barrels. But unlike a true C-M Vilmart blocks the malos, retaining great mineral tension. Aside from their rosé, the wines are dominated by Chardonnay—and not the pencil-lead Chardonnay of the Côte des Blancs, but the more generous Chard that you get on the Montagne de Reims where the black grapes tend to be more dominant.

More important than these "technical" details, Vilmart is obsessed with good vineyard work, has plenty of low-yielding older vines, and happens to make really delicious wines. Taste and you will learn. And if you have already learned, you will almost certainly want to taste some more!

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine:

Practicing organic

70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir

50% 2021, 50% 2020-2019

From Rilly-la-Montagne 1er Cru (lieu-dit Hautes Grèves)

Clay and limestone soils

No malo

Fermented and aged in large foudre

Aged 30+ months on the lees

Dosage: 7g/L

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken, lobster with drawn butter, seared scallops, or a mushroom risotto. Rich enough for aged Comte and good with fried food of almost any kind.

Tasting Profile

Brioche, baked apple, lemon curd, toasted hazelnut and honeycomb over a chalky core. Full-bodied for Champagne, creamy in texture, with a fine bead and bracing acidity. Bone-dry, long, and nutty on the finish.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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