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Honorio Rubio, Rioja Blanco Macerado, 2020

by 220 Cantaras
$35.99
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Rioja is not where most people go hunting for skin-contact wine. Honorio Rubio, up in the high village of Cordovin, makes one anyway: Viura fermented and then left in contact with its skins for an extended maceration, reported at up to about twelve months, bottled with only a light filtration. The technique is borrowed from Georgia and the eastern Mediterranean, and applied here to Rioja's workhorse white grape it turns Viura from something polite into something chewy, savory and gently tannic. This is an orange wine with a Spanish accent rather than a natural-wine costume. Give it a real glass and don't serve it too cold.

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More about Bodegas Honorio Rubio

In a region that made its name on Tempranillo and long oak aging, Honorio Rubio has built his reputation on everything else: white Rioja from Viura, and clarete, the pale, old-fashioned blend of white and red grapes for which his village, Cordovín, was once so famous that its name became a byword for the style.

Cordovín sits at about 600 meters in the upper Najerilla Valley, on the southern edge of Rioja. The village never had a cooperative; families made their own wine, and Garnacha and Viura were traditionally planted side by side. Honorio worked the vines with his grandfather as a boy and handled his first harvest alone at fifteen, and the bodega began bottling its own wine in 1988. Today he works with about 80 hectares of vines on red soils, largely farmed by long-standing local growers.

The winemaking is traditional and hands-off: spontaneous fermentations, no malolactic for the whites and claretes, and long aging on the fine lees, the lías finas, in cement and large oak, for texture and depth without oaky flavor. The range runs from the everyday Tremendus clarete to the Lías Finas white and clarete, a skin-fermented Macerado and Añadas, a Viura from a solera. Deeply savory wines that recall the old whites and rosados of López de Heredia.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Viura

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled octopus, aged sheep's-milk cheese, chorizo, or anything with saffron and smoke.

Tasting Profile

Dry, chewy and savory: dried orange peel, herbs and nuts, with a light grip of tannin.