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Cappellano, Barbera d'Alba "Gabutti", 2021

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
by Cappellano
$109.99
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Barbera treated exactly like Barolo: a long maceration, then years in large neutral casks, from Cappellano's Gabutti holding in Serralunga d'Alba. That is not how most Barbera gets made — the grape usually goes one of two ways, bottled young and simple or buried in new French oak — and Cappellano takes neither road. Augusto Cappellano is the fifth generation here, farming a tiny estate the old way and famously refusing ratings and marketing on principle. 2021 gave the Langhe a long, even growing season and a rain-free autumn, which meant ripe fruit that never lost its acidity, and acidity is what Barbera lives on. The result has genuine depth and a Serralunga savor most Barbera never approaches, and it will reward a few years in the cellar if you can leave it alone.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Barbera

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Agnolotti del plin, tajarin with meat ragù, veal Milanese, salumi with Fontina, or a mushroom pizza.

Tasting Profile

Dark cherry and plum with licorice, dried herbs and a savory earthiness. Full-bodied for Barbera, with very little tannin but bracing acidity and a long, dry finish.

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