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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault Desiree, 2022

$199.00
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This is terroir as contradiction: a Chardonnay vineyard planted in red clay soil naturally suited for Pinot Noir, in a parcel so small (0.43 hectares) that only Lafon bothers with it. The cadastral name 'Désirée' was officially eliminated in 1973, but Lafon holds grandfather rights to revive it—a nod to old Burgundy custom. Replanted in 2008 with mixed massal and clonal selections, this rare wine expresses Meursault through an unusual lens: denser, earthier, with a texture unlike any sibling in the lineup. It's the outlier that proves the rule.

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Phone: (212) 477-1315

Burghound

92 points

"A dollop of wood lurks in the background of the aromas of hazelnut, lemon rind and various white orchard fruit. The sleek, delicious and vibrant middleweight flavors possess adequate density before culminating in an overtly citrus-suffused, clean and highly refreshing finish. This is exceptionally well-balanced and a wine that should drink well young and with age."

Antonio Galloni

91 points

"The 2022 Meursault Désirée has much more intensity on the nose than the Clos-de-la-Barre, well-defined with dried white flowers and a touch of candle wax. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly honeyed texture, forward and generous with low acidity on the finish. This looks set to be one of the Domaine's earlier drinking cuvées." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

92 points

"The 2022 Meursault Désirée is another lovely rendition of this cuvée, offering up aromas of peach, pear, orange oil, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy, it's pure and racy, concluding with an aromatic finish. As readers may remember, it hails from a warm site near Santenots, just below Meursault's campground." —William Kelley

Jancis Robinson

16.5 points

"Cask sample. Mid lemon. Ripe apples, peach. Open and showing a little Meursault opulence. Dry on the finish. Fresh, balanced acidity. Length."

Decanter

93 points

"Desirée' is the designation the Lafon domaine has used since the 19th century for their Meursault from the lieu-dit Les Pétures (also known as Les Plures) in the Santenots sector. Planted to Chardonnay, it has village-level status. Lafon presses the grapes slowly and ferments in cask with a moderate use of new wood to produce this alluring wine with ripe apricot and quince fruit and a suggestion of white flowers. The texture is rich and dense, and the finish lingers luxuriously on the palate."

More about Domaine des Comtes Lafon

A Meursault institution that makes white Burgundy the way it should taste: rich but not heavy, layered but not overwrought. These Chardonnays from the Côte de Beaune sit at the intersection of power and elegance, especially the prized Clos de la Baronne, where the limestone terroir speaks clearly. The house has built its reputation on consistency and refinement—wines that age gracefully and reward patience. If you want to understand what limestone and lees aging can do in the hands of masters, this is where to start.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Try with roasted mushrooms and gruyère tart or white fish in brown butter—the earthy clay character rewards umami and richness.

Tasting Profile


Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.