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Giovanni Canonica, Barolo Paiagallo, 2009

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$299.00
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A back-vintage bottle of one of the last truly old-school Barolos, from a grower so uncompromising that he once shared Bartolo Mascarello's politics to the point of refusing to send his wine to America at all. Paiagallo is Giovanni Canonica's flagship. For years it was his only vineyard: 1.5 hectares of calcareous marl and clay at 300 to 400 metres, on the hill directly above the village of Barolo. He shares the site with just two other owners, Marchesi de Gresy and Fontanafredda. The work is as old-fashioned as it gets. The vines are farmed organically (uncertified) with nothing but copper and sulfur treatments, and the wine gets native-yeast fermentations, macerations of 30 to 40 days, aging in big old botti, and very little sulfur at any stage. All of it happens in the cellars under the small agriturismo Canonica runs with his family in the middle of town. Quantities are tiny, so finding a 2009 at all is worth noticing. Open it ahead of time and give it a decanter.

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More about Giovanni Canonica

Hidden legend in Barolo, living in a small agriturismo above the village, making wine in cellars below. Started with 1.5 hectares in Paiagallo (vines on the hill above town), later inherited older vines in Grinzane Cavour with a rare rose clone of Nebbiolo. No herbicides, no pesticides, only tradition. Production is insanely limited.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2009

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Natural

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, agnolotti del plin in roast juices, tajarin with butter and white truffle, braised veal cheeks, aged Castelmagno or Toma.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic old-school Barolo profile: sour cherry, dried roses, tar and savoury, earthy notes, with no new-oak vanilla thanks to the big old botti. Typically medium-bodied but firmly built, with high acidity and grippy tannins from the long macerations, finishing long and dry. Think a red Burgundy's perfume with far more grip.

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