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Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin La Princee, 2021

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La Princée is the most direct way into Olivier Lamy's Saint-Aubin. It's a village wine made with the same obsessive care as the rest of his range, which makes it an accessible entry point to one of white Burgundy's most sought-after names. Lamy took over the estate in the 1990s and turned a solid domaine into a legendary one, and he did it mostly in the vineyard. Since 1995 he has been raising vine density toward 14,000 vines per hectare, against a Burgundy standard of 10,000. He's also so fanatical about pruning that he nurses diseased vines back to health instead of pulling them out (they give only a few grapes, but those grapes are intensely flavoured). La Princée is a blend of five village parcels on Saint-Aubin's western slope: En Joncul, Traversaine, En l'Ebaupin, Le Banc and Champ Tirant. The vines were planted between 1985 and 2000 and are farmed organically. The cuvée normally ferments on native yeasts, then spends about two years on its lees in large 300- and 600-litre barrels, mostly used, and six more months in tank. That care is why this reads as far more than a village Saint-Aubin.

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Antonio Galloni

87 points

"The 2021 Saint-Aubin La Princée, half the normal crop, has a taut, linear, Granny Smith and petrichor-scented bouquet. The palate is balanced with modest weight - not a complex Saint-Aubin and missing a little mineralité on the finish. Drink over the next 3-5 years." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

88 points

"Aromas of white flowers, lemon oil and toasted nuts introduce the 2021 Saint-Aubin La Princée, a medium-bodied, taut and chalky wine with a sweet core of fruit that's girdled by tangy acids, concluding with a youthfully firm, mordant finish." —William Kelley

More about Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy took over this Saint-Aubin estate in the 1990s and transformed it from solid to legendary. Nineteen hectares of Côte de Beaune terroir (two-thirds Chardonnay) worked with obsessive attention and lutte raisonnée. His Haute Densité cuvées, from vines planted at unusually high density, show what happens when you farm like you mean it. Concentrated, complex, Saint-Aubin's new standard.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Sole meunière; seared scallops with brown butter; roast chicken with tarragon cream; Comté gougères; crab cakes with lemon aioli.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Saint-Aubin profile in Lamy's precise, taut style: lemon, green apple and white flowers over a stony, chalky minerality. Long lees ageing in large, mostly used barrels typically adds a creamy texture and a gentle hint of toast rather than overt oak, with bright acidity carrying a dry, saline finish. Think a leaner, more mineral Puligny-Montrachet.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.