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Lamoresca, Frappato Nerocapitano, 2025

Red Wine from Sicily, Italy
by Lamoresca
$29.99
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Capitano nero is the local nickname for Frappato around Vittoria, and Nerocapitano is Filippo Rizzo's straight varietal take on it — pure, perfumed, and built to be served with a chill. The vines are about twenty years old on clay and sand at Lamoresca's isolated estate outside San Michele di Ganzaria, farmed organically alongside olive trees and a prickly pear grove. Fermentation runs about two weeks on the skins with native yeasts and no temperature control, then the wine goes to concrete and fiberglass rather than oak, which keeps the aromatics unsmudged. Rizzo learned his sulfur-free technique working with Frank Cornelissen on Etna, and applies it here with no additions at bottling. Where Etna's Nerello leans structural, this is the airy, gulpable end of Sicilian red — half an hour in the fridge and it is one of the better warm-weather reds going.

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More about Lamoresca

Frank Cornelissen, Etna's natural wine legend, happens to come from Belgium. And then there is Filippo Rizzo, the man who opened one of the world’s first non-Parisian natural wine bars...in Belgium! After a bit, he moved back to his native Sicily, where he befriended Cornelissen and set out to make his own wines at Lamoresca.

Rizzo went looking a little south of Etna. He found some old vines and olive trees at about 450 meters above sea level, not far from Vittoria (of Occhipinti and COS fame) but quite a few miles from any other operating winery. While reclaiming and reviving the old Frappatto and Nero d'Avola vines, he made wine at Cornelissen’s, learning all of Frank’s secrets for attaining purity without sulfur.

Now Rizzo applies those lessons successfully at Lamoresca. The approach is extreme. There is no sulphur, of course (not even at bottling), and farming is completely natural. Nor is there temperature control—a possibility this far south only because of the cool mountain air and the breeze from the nearby Mediterranean.

Despite the hands-off approach, Rizzi eschews the “natural” label. Too much natural wine, he contends, tastes the same. His aim is to make something singular and representative of his own remote plot of land.

He has succeeded. They are a little more blue- and black-fruited than Frank’s wines, and a little fresher and airier than Occhipinti's. If Frank’s wines echo the wines of Piedmont, Rizzi’s are a touch closer to the Northern Rhone. But mostly they are just themselves: pure, delicious and self-confident.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Frappato

  • Vintage

    2025

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled tuna, pork sausage with fennel, roasted peppers and eggplant, charcuterie, pizza margherita, salmon.

Tasting Profile

Fresh strawberry and red cherry with black pepper, pomegranate and wildflowers. Light bodied with fine, barely-there tannin, bright acidity and a clean, spicy finish. Serve lightly chilled.