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Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine L D'Or, 2005

White Wine from Loire, France
$143.99
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Twenty-one years on, this is the argument that old-vine Muscadet belongs in the same conversation as aged Chablis. Luneau-Papin, in Le Landreau, is one of the greatest addresses in Muscadet — up there with Pépière, Bregeon and Landron — and "L d'Or" is the family's flagship: old vines rooted in a narrow vein of granite and two-mica gneiss off the Armorican Massif, fermented with native yeasts and left unracked on their fine lees in underground glass-tiled vats before bottling sur lie. That combination — low alcohol, searing natural acidity, no oak, and months of lees to feed the texture and shield the wine from oxygen — is exactly why the cuvée has been a reference point for ageing in the appellation since the late 1990s. 2005 was the great Loire vintage of the decade: near-perfect weather from flowering to harvest, real ripeness with the acidity intact, and the most concentrated wine of this five-vintage run. It is fully mature now and sitting comfortably on its plateau, with the deep honeyed-quince register that only a Muscadet with this much stuffing develops. Serve it cool rather than cold, in a proper white-wine glass, and pull the older cork gently.

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Robert Parker

90 points

"Smelling of lime, artichoke, oyster shells and salt spray, the Luneau-Papin 2005 Muscadet de Sevre et Main Sur Lie L d’Or (reviewed among on-line addenda to issue 172, the text reprinted here) offers a wonderfully palate saturating range of saline and chalky mineral impressions and a broth-like richness (if slightly less vivacity than their 2004 L d’Or at a similar stage) and finishes with a combination of infectious juiciness and salty tang that reel one back for the next sip." —David Schildknecht

Wine Enthusiast

91 points

"Powerful, rich, yeasty, packed with green and white fruits, this is a dense wine. The acidity throws a punch, but then the fruit is ripe enough to balance. Impressive wine, still developing." —Roger Voss

More about Luneau-Papin

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Melon de Bourgogne

  • Vintage

    2005

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Big enough now for roast chicken with tarragon, scallops seared in brown butter, or a brandade de morue. It is also lovely with aged Comté and with sole meunière.

Tasting Profile

Deep gold. Quince, beeswax, toasted hazelnut and dried flowers, with the citrus of its youth now folded underneath. Medium-bodied and broad in texture from the lees, but the acidity still runs straight down the middle. Dry, saline and stony on a long finish.

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Loire Valley Wines

The Loire Valley is France’s greatest source of value for anyone looking for elegant, terroir-driven wines. Our collection celebrates the region’s great diversity, with the mineral-driven whites of Muscadet and Sancerre, the beautiful Chenin Blancs and Cabernet Francs from villages like Vouvray and Chinon, and natural wines from everywhere in the region. Sometimes wonderfully fresh and gulpable, sometimes serious and age-worthy, the prices are always very reasonable.

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