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Nervi-Conterno, Gattinara Valferana, 2020

$159.99

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The Valferana vineyard lies at high elevation on volcanic porphyry and ancient glacial soils, giving Nebbiolo a more lifted, vertical character than the denser, more muscular Molsino. Under Roberto Conterno, Nervi has been elevated to a new level of precision—native yeast fermentation in wood, aging in large botti, and strict attention to vineyard expression.

The 2020 vintage was cool and balanced, ideal for Valferana’s subtle style. The wine opens with rose petal, sour cherry, red currant, and dried herbs, followed by a palate that is taut, fine-textured, and mineral to the core. Tannins are firm but elegant, acidity is vibrant, and the finish is long, savory, and slightly saline.

Where Molsino is power and depth, Valferana is finesse and nuance—more Chambolle than Gevrey, more Alto Piemonte than Barolo. Drink from 2026 onward, or cellar for 15–20 years for a deeper, more savory evolution.

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In early 2018, Nebbiolo lovers everywhere became happier than a pig in truffles, when news broke that Roberto Conterno, of iconic Barolo cantina Giacomo Conterno, had officially purchased the historic Nervi estate in Gattinara.

One of Roberto’s many admirable traits is his commitment to uphold the meticulous standards that have earned the Conterno family wines their legendary status. He does not take expansion lightly, acquiring new vineyards with a level of deliberation and forethought that would make Daniel Day-Lewis’ role choices seem like hasty decisions.

In fact, Roberto has had a long relationship with Nervi, as somewhat of an unofficial advisor and close friend for many years prior to becoming the winemaker of this ancient estate, with holdings in the appellation’s most revered crus.

Of the ‘Alto Piemonte’ regions (those north of Barolo in the foothills of the Alps separating Italy and Switzerland), Gattinara is arguably the most exciting, thanks to its unique terroir: a vein of volcanic gravel, on steep, high-elevation slopes. The effect of extreme climate swings coax a distinct minerality and a tender fragility from nebbiolo, all without compromising their longevity. Indeed, some of the finest old nebbiolo we’ve experienced have been Nervi bottlings dating back to the cantina’s heydays of the 50’s and 60’s.

While talk of great terroir is certainly relevant, what cannot be overstated is that Conterno is unquestionably one of the greatest winemakers in the world.

Unfortunately, there have never really been days of affordable Conterno nebbiolo...until now. His masterful approach and studious dedication makes this third bottling of Nervi-Conterno a truly exciting chapter.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 96
"The 2020 Gattinara Valferana is beautifully lifted and floral. Gorgeous red-toned fruit, white pepper, chalk and orange peel all rush from the glass in this striking, finely-cut Gattinara. Sweet floral notes and a burst of red fruit punctuate the finish. In 2020, the Valferana is all finesse." -Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

RP 95
"What makes the Conterno Nervi 2020 Gattinara Vigna Valferana so irresistible are those ferrous metallic and mineral notes that define the bouquet. You recognize volcanic rock, crushed red stone and other aromas that are evocative of the vineyard's geology. Vigne Valferana and Molsino have different climates, but generally speaking, these wines offer more accessible tannins and more fullness compared to Barolo. This wine is especially luminous and bright, with a lifted and elegant quality to the bouquet." -Monica Larner

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

Vineyard
The best grapes from the Valferana cru are selected for this bottling.
Orientation
320m in elevation.
Soil
Volcanic soil rich in minerals and clay - with good drainage.
Viticulture
Hand harvested.
Vinification
Gentle destemming and crushing. Fermentation in truncated conical oak vats at controlled temperature.
Aging
Aged for about four years in large, wood vats.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied