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Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques, 2023

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
by Sylvie Esmonin
$284.99
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Clos Saint-Jacques is one of Burgundy's most worshipped 1er Crus — a 6.7-hectare south-east-facing amphitheater above Gevrey, farmed by only five owners. Sylvie Esmonin holds 1.6 hectares in a single block — the second-largest parcel in the climat, alongside Rousseau, Fourrier, Bruno Clair, and Jadot. Her share is farmed from 45-to-55-year-old vines, vinified with up to 70% whole-cluster, and aged in barrel from cooper Dominique Laurent. The 2023 is the flagship and behaves like one — kirsch, black raspberry, crushed rose petal, woodsmoke, and a stony mineral spine that runs the length of the long, lifted finish. A wine that earns the worship. Decant, sit down, take notes — or just shut up and drink.

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Burghound

94 points

"Meadows gives this wine a “Sweet Spot / Outstanding” designation. “"(from a large 1.6 ha holding of 45+ year old vines). This is also pungently reduced. The sleeker and more powerful flavors flash even more evident minerality that carries over to the dusty, compact and moderately austere finale that exhibits excellent length. Like the old vines Gevrey, my projected range assumes that this will clean up once it's racked and prepared for the bottling." —Allen Meadows

Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru includes 60% whole bunch and the same level of new oak. I love the aromatics here, which are perhaps more refined and elegant than those of the 2022 last year, with more red fruit and a little more terroir expression coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, slightly powdery in texture with a patina of oak that will assimilate in time. Yes, this is still more precocious in style than, say, Armand Rousseau or Bruno Clair, yet it remains a quite delicious proposition." —Neal Martin

More about Sylvie Esmonin

Domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin with a 15th-century family lineage and five hectares of vineyard. Sylvie studied oenology in Dijon and her wines are marked by high whole-cluster fermentation—lots of stem tannins, lots of terroir. Clos Saint-Jacques is their crown jewel.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast duck with cherries, truffled risotto, rare lamb saddle, beef Wellington, aged Époisses on the cheese course. The kind of bottle that deserves the menu it's drinking with.

Tasting Profile

Layered and lifted. Kirsch, black raspberry, crushed rose petal, woodsmoke, and a stony mineral spine. Medium-plus body, ripe and fine-grained tannins, with a long, perfumed, energetic finish.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Aurelien Suenen makes some of the most crystalline and pure Chardonnay with bubbles we've ever found. His vineyards are in the Côte de Blancs, a long north-to-south running escarpment of pure chalk. It faces east, where minerality is nearly a given; exploring each village and vineyard's nuanced expressions provide endless fun to the wine-obsessed (like us!).

Until the Grower movement of the last two decades, single vineyard wines were a rarity in Champagne. Of course, Salon has been always been a single vineyard wine, since 1905, and Pierre Péters started bottling Les Chetillons in 1971. Aurelien found inspiration from these star producers and followed suit, leading his own young generation with his site-specific bottlings.

To coax the most minerality out of the inherently salty, stony soils of the Côte de Blancs, Aurelien has converted his farming to organics, a challenge in this marginal and wet climate. In the cellar he has returned to using old, neutral barrels, along with old acacia and some concrete tun, allowing the wine to breath and coalesce over the long 6-8 month aging, before the second fermentation in the bottle.

Only indigenous yeasts are used, and paired with limited SO2, each barrel continues along its own path; some will complete malolactic fermentation and others will not. All of this just adds to the complexity of every vintage.

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Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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