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Whitcraft, Santa Maria Valley Tinaquaic Vineyard Chardonnay, 2023

$59.99
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Tinaquaic is one of Santa Maria Valley's old-guard sites — Foxen's estate vineyard at Rancho Tinaquaic, first planted in 1989 and dry-farmed since 1991 — and, unusually for California, it's dry-farmed, forcing the vines to send roots deep and self-regulate their crop. That old-vine, no-irrigation character is the whole point of this bottling. Santa Maria's transverse valley funnels cold ocean air far inland, giving one of the longest, coolest growing seasons in California and Chardonnay with real tension. Drake Whitcraft, at the low-fi Santa Barbara winery his late father Chris founded, makes it with a deliberately light touch: native fermentation, older oak rather than new, minimal sulfur, unfined and unfiltered. The result is a Chardonnay that trades weight for cut and detail.

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Antonio Galloni

96 points

"The 2023 Chardonnay Tinaquaic Vineyard, labeled with Whitcraft's original 1980s label design, is impressively concentrated. It conveys the intensity of dry-farmed old vines in their ability to yield resonant, crystal-clear fruit. The 2023 is creamy and grippy, weightless and fleshed out, lifted and deep—a wine of beautiful contrasts. Mineral density builds with air as the 2023 sits in the glass, revealing layers of citrus oil, orchard fruit and crushed rocks. Just 100 cases of this beauty exist, but it's not to be missed." —Billy Norris

Robert Parker

94 points

"The most complete of the Whitcraft Chardonnays is the 2023 Chardonnay Tinaquiac Vineyard, which opens with a strikingly pure, expressive bouquet that melds floral, nutty, creamy and citrus tones with increasing nuance and depth as it opens in the glass. The palate offers a similarly complex texture that balances a tensile, elastic energy with a broad yet lifted mouthfeel. It releases into a distinctly saline and bracingly bright finish, welcomingly padded with enough depth to avoid austerity as it lingers with the same nuanced purity first observed on the nose." —Matthew Luczy

More about Whitcraft

Chris and Kathleen Whitcraft founded their Santa Barbara winery in 1985. Chris quickly became one of the most influential winemakers not just in the Central Coast but in the entire state, making celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from great sites while also pioneering the practice of bottling block-designate wine beginning in 1991. The 1990s were a golden age for this great American winery, and if you've been lucky enough to taste any library bottles from back then, you've experienced their astounding freshness and beauty.

Chris's son Drake grew up working alongside his dad, even foregoing college to help at the winery. They didn't always agree, especially on business practices like where and how to sell their wine. But when the business saw financial troubles that were only exacerbated by the 2008 recession, and when Chris's health began to wane at the same time, Drake's role became crystal clear: it was time to save the winery.

Founding a side project in 2012 that helped pay off debts, reconstructing the family business and forming his own new bonds with the region's top growers after his father passed in 2014, Drake brought Whitcraft into a new era of stability—and the wines into a second golden age of quality.

Whitcraft wines always resisted the Parkerization era, preferring a low-intervention style that embraces vibrance and purity with a focus on site expression. Drake incorporates biodynamic farming practices and uses the same classic techniques as his dad, favoring gentle hand-harvesting and foot-treading, avoiding additions in the cellar.

The wines taste soulful and honest, and I was thrilled to reconnect with them. They show grace and minerality, with Santa Barbara's signature savory fruit swirling around impressive structure. These releases are worth snapping up, and you can enjoy them on release or for years to come.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled sole, crab cakes, roast chicken, or a creamy leek-and-potato gratin.

Tasting Profile

Green apple, citrus, white flowers and a struck-flint edge. Medium-bodied but taut, bright acidity, restrained oak. Dry, saline, lingering finish.