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DECEMBER 2025
Freshies vs. Grown-Ups

In the wine world, we have a colloquial term for the kind of Champagnes that are flying off the shelves in Paris and New York right now: "Freshies”.

These are wines built on energy. They are bottled early, often with no added sugar, and they are meant to be drunk now. They are energizing,electric, racy, and full of nervous tension. They wake you up.

But Champagne has a second personality. If you let it sleep—sometimes for years, sometimes for a decade—it grows up. It sheds that nervous energy and develops a deeper complexity. The sharp lemon flavors turn into dried fruits and golden pastry. The aggressive bubbles soften into a creamy foam. It becomes what we’re calling a “Grown-Up”.

This month, we are pitting a Freshie against a Grown-Up. We have one bottle that is barely out of the cradle, bursting with raw, vibrant  energy. And we have another that has been sleeping in a dark cellar since its birth in 2016, patiently waiting nearly a decade to tell you its story.

EXTRA BRUT PICK NO. 1

Our thoughts on this selection

The Freshie

If you have shopped with us at Flatiron for any length of time, you likely know the name Laherte Frères. Their entry-level "Ultradition" has become our single best-selling Grower Champagne over the last few years—and for good reason. Aurélien Laherte is one of the most dynamic young winemakers in the region, farming biodynamically and making beautifully-etched wines.

We love the Ultradition and we drink it ourselves quite a lot. But for the real Laherte magic you need to level up. We do that this month with his Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature. It is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Pinot Meunier, primarily from the delicious, juicy 2022 vintage. The grapes are sourced from Laherte’s home territory in  the Coteaux Sud d’Eparnay and also the nearby Vallée de la Marne. Laherte says that the Pinot Meunier offers fruitiness, the Pinot Noir offers texture and depth, and the terroir itself – chalk soils, of course – delivers the freshness and cut.

And in this wine – at this moment – it is the freshness that dominates, and this is so electric that you might call it a "live wire" Champagne. Because it is "Brut Nature" (zero dosage), there is no added sugar to soften the blow. Aside from electricity, you get salty chalk and pure, crunchy, ripe fruit.

Here is one of the reasons we wanted to include a Freshie in this shipment: fresh Champagne is perfect for toasting and celebrating! The nuanced complexities that develop from aging Champagne can get kind of lost when midnight strikes and everybody is knocking back flutes in celebration. This wine is all about invigorating energy, A perfect way to ring in a lively new year! 

EXTRA BRUT PICK NO. 2

Our thoughts on this selection

The Grown-Up

To find our second bottle, we travel south to the Côte de Sézanne, to a tiny village named Fontaine-Denis. The name is resonant, as it evolved from a latin name translatable as the Fountain of Dionysus, the Greek God of Wine. It is here that the Collet family has been farming since 1744. 

This bottle comes entirely from the 2016 vintage. In a world where most Champagne is released 2-3 years after harvest, this wine spent over six years resting on its lees (the spent yeast cells) in the bottle before it was disgorged. It is mostly Chardonnay (about 75%), which tends to be the Champagne grape that benefits most from long aging.

The years in the cellar have done their work. You will notice the color is a deeper, shimmering gold. The bubbles will feel different—smaller, softer, and less aggressive. On the nose, the fresh fruit has evolved gracefully. Instead of tart apple, look for baked pear, dried figs, hazelnut, and warm brioche. This is the result of autolysis—the chemical process where the wine absorbs flavor from the yeast over time. It is savory, vinous, and profound.

As we suggest above, all this good stuff will be completely ignored by annoying drinking this Champagne at midnight on 12/31. Don’t do it. Serve this one with dinner! When Champagne ages it becomes "gastronomic", meaning, roughly, that you should serve it alongside a main course. Our top choice:  take the humble roast chicken and gussy it up with a chanterelle mushroom sauce! That’s exactly the kind of dish that you would find served alongside a bottle like this if you were eating dinner in Champagne itself.

All of this leads to an interesting question: is a Freshie always a Freshie? Or can you age a Freshie and see it transform into a Grown-Up? Well, not exactly. Remember, the Grown-Up in this month’s delivery rested on its lees for six years. Once a Champagne has been disgorged , it no longer gets the benefit of that lees contact.

But Champagnes can age post-disgorgement as well, just in different ways. It evolves more like Burgundy, with the development of truffly notes and forest floor flavors. You may have already come across grand old bottles of Krug or Dom Perignon. It’s much harder to find older bottles of Grower Champagne, especially those made in a non-dosage style like Laherte’s. We don’t think Laherte’s Freshie will ever taste like Collet’s Grown-Up, but we do think that it will evolve and develop in interesting ways over the next few years. If you’re interested in a second bottle to give this a shot, let us know!



GROWER CHAMPAGNE

A guide to the best bubbles in the world and what makes them different from the Grandes Marques

Champagne is the world’s most famous sparkling wine. Hailing from the Champagne regions of France, its biggest names are among the biggest names in wine: Moet, Dom Perignon, Veuve Clicquot, Cristal.

But there’s another side to Champagne: a universe of small-scale producers preserving ancient family farming traditions and bottling wines you’ve never heard of.

These are the Grower Champagnes.

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