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Franz Hirtzberger, Riesling Ried Setzberg Smaragd, 2024

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
by Franz Hirtzberger
$82.99
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One of Hirtzberger's great Spitz crus, in the Smaragd tier that Wachau reserves for its most complete dry Rieslings. Setzberg sits on pure gneiss — primary rock, no loess softening — and the resulting wine is all about cool mineral spine and citrus precision rather than tropical opulence. 2024 was a vintage that rewarded patient, healthy fruit, and Hirtzberger's terraced parcels (rebuilt stone by stone over decades) delivered Riesling with serious tension. Expect lime oil, white peach, wet slate, and a long mineral pull that says "another five years in the cellar wouldn't hurt anyone." Franz Jr. now runs the show. The Setzberg is one of the wines that tells you why the family name carries the weight it does in Wachau.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2024 Riesling Setzberg Smaragd, saved from the frost by candles, is grown on gneiss. Gorgeous flintiness gives an exciting spin to the nose, uniting lemon and tangerine with the subtle scent of nettle. The palate presents these same notes, adding crackle, verve and citric joy to the strait-laced wine, which still shimmers with yeast. Totally mouthwatering." —Anne Krebiehl, MW

More about Franz Hirtzberger

Franz Hirtzberger and F.X. Pichler are the two greatest producers of the Wachau and arguably of dry white wines in Austria. Located in the tiny village of Spitz, surrounded by mountains and the Danube, Hirtzberger makes Riesling that tastes like pure minerality and precision. His terraced vineyard names—Hochrain, Singerriedel, Steinporz—are synonymous with the greatest wines of the region.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Earthy , Minerally , Rich

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork with riesling-cream sauce, halibut with brown butter, Alsatian choucroute, smoked trout, aged Comté and Gruyère, lobster with drawn butter, duck breast with stone fruit.

Tasting Profile

Dry, full-bodied, mineral-driven. Lime oil, yellow peach, wet slate, candied ginger. High, taut acidity; long, salt-and-stone finish. Power held in check by classic Wachau coolness.

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