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Pierre Gerbais, Champagne La Loge Pinot Blanc Extra Brut [2011-2021], NV

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
by Pierre Gerbais
$149.99
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Pinot Blanc accounts for a rounding error's worth of Champagne, and almost none of it is old; La Loge comes from a parcel of vines now eighty to ninety years old. It is not the Alsatian version either, but a local strain growers here call pinot blanc vrai, prized by the monks who planted it because it buds late and dodges the spring frosts that used to wipe out the Aube eight vintages in ten. The parcel sits on a south-facing plateau of Kimmeridgian limestone in Celles-sur-Ource, in the Cote des Bar, where Aurelien Gerbais farms about four hectares of the grape, an extraordinary share for the region, alongside his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is pressed on the estate's Coquard press, fermented and put through full malolactic in stainless steel, blended with a perpetual reserve going back to 2011, then given thirty-six months on lattes and 3 g/L dosage. If you want to understand why Gerbais matters, this is the bottle: broader and rounder than Chardonnay, without any of the weight you would expect to come with that.

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Antonio Galloni

91 points

"The NV Extra Brut La Loge is a pure Pinot Blanc from a perpetual reserve spanning the vintages 2011 to 2019. Both green and red apples are portrayed with aroma and enticing tartness on the nose of this unusual Pinot Blanc. On the palate, a sense of waxy apple skin takes over, supplemented by melon freshness and a translucent lemon brightness on a slender, bright and lemony body with pithy length." —Anne Krebiehl, MW

Robert Parker

94 points

"Disgorged in June 2024 with a dosage of two grams per liter, the latest NV Extra-Brut La Loge is, as ever, produced from Pinot Blanc vines planted in the 1930s on a south-facing mid-slope site. Based on the 2020 vintage and complemented by 50% reserve wines from the perpetual reserve (2011–2019), it unfurls from the glass with aromas of pear, yellow apple, apricot and beeswax, mingling with spring blossoms and a subtle hint of smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, it is simultaneously concentrated and tensile, with a generous, layered fruit core, ripe but racy acidity and a long, saline-tinged finish of great precision." —Kristaps Karklins

Decanter

93 points

"TChampagne only boasts a handful of 100% Pinot Blanc cuvées, but this is surely one of the most balanced and refreshing. From a parcel of old massal-selection vines (taken as cuttings from existing stock) in Celles-sur-Ource, bottled in 2021 from a perpetual cuvée started in 2011, of which the 2020 vintage is the youngest addition, it's quite wide and rich up front, as you'd expect from the grape, but there's a beautiful twist and turn of lightness and lift, too; white pepper, mango, acacia honey and spots of peppery-green brightness settle into a satin-smooth palate full of nutty depths but avoiding heaviness." —Tom Hewson

More about Pierre Gerbais

Fourth-generation domaine in the Aube champagne region, now run by Pascal and his son Aurélien. Organic vineyards, minimal intervention, and a real sense of terroir. Their 'Grains de Celles' is one of those entry-level Champagnes that punches above its price and makes you remember why Champagne matters.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Blanc

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with butter and herbs, brandade, crab cakes, sole meuniere, or a wedge of aged Comte. It has the breadth for richer fish and cream sauces without losing its cut.

Tasting Profile

Dry and broad-shouldered, with white peach, quince, almond, honeysuckle and fresh pastry from long lees aging. Medium-bodied and rounder in the mouth than Chardonnay would be, with a fine mousse, quiet acidity and a long, chalky, faintly nutty finish.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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