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Gunderloch, Riesling GG Rothenberg, 2017

White Wine from Rheinhessen, Germany
by Gunderloch
$129.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles

Rothenberg is the crown jewel - the Nackenheim near-monopole that Gunderloch has farmed since 1890 and where roughly two-thirds of the estate's vines still grow. Here the iron-rich, blood-red slate of the Roter Hang is at its most compressed and powerful, and Johannes Hasselbach farms organically and ferments wild to total dryness to let it speak as purely as possible. This is the grand cru that expresses the DNA of the red slope with the most depth, weight, and savory intensity. The 2017 has had years to settle in bottle, and it shows: the youthful grip has softened into a mature, riper register, the slate turned deep and honeyed at the edges. A powerful grand cru now drinking beautifully, ready to pour tonight.

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  • Provenance Assured: All wines are maintained in climate-controlled conditions at our shop until the moment of dispatch.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Smoky Latakia tobacco, kelp, crushed stone and sea breeze make for an intriguing aromatic display. Mustard and caraway seeds add to the invigorating pungency and ping of lemon zest on a firm but polished palate as well as on the gripping finish, where the briny sense of marine mineral matter translates into salivary stimulation. Just enough fresh lemon juiciness emerges to animate and refresh, while a shimmering impression of stone and smoke impingement rivets the taster’s attention. By far the most complex and complete of the Gunderloch vintage 2017 Grosse Gewächse (as of my November 2018 assessment), this almost certainly also has the most promising future." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2017 Riesling trocken Rothenberg GG is very intense and quite open on the pure and slate-driven nose that indicates perfectly matured Riesling fruit. Pure, piquant and lean on the palate yet with juicy fruit, finesse and tension, this is again a more ascetic and very mineral dry Riesling that is less exciting for hedonists—this is more for those who like a Gothic cathedral in their wine glass. The finish is linear, piquant and salty yet doesn't show much generosity in terms of fruit. Doubtlessly a long-distance runner that might get even more complex over the years in the bottle. Tasted in May 2020." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Gunderloch

Johannes Hasselbach took over this Rheinhessen stalwart in 2016 and immediately started making them drier, more mineral, lower in alcohol. That's the move. The Rothenberg vineyard—which they own sixty-five percent of—produces some of Germany's finest Riesling: structured, age-worthy, full of yellow fruit and the kind of acidity that makes food sing.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast poultry, veal with mushrooms, or a rich aged hard cheese.

Tasting Profile

Dry and full, with mature stone fruit, honeyed depth, savory spice, and iron-slate minerality.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines