Johannes Hasselbach took over this Rheinhessen stalwart in 2016 and immediately started making them drier, more mineral, lower in alcohol. That's the move. The Rothenberg vineyard—which they own sixty-five percent of—produces some of Germany's finest... Read More

Johannes Hasselbach took over this Rheinhessen stalwart in 2016 and immediately started making them drier, more mineral, lower in alcohol. That's the move. The Rothenberg vineyard—which they own sixty-five percent of—produces some of Germany's finest Riesling: structured, age-worthy, full of yellow fruit and the kind of acidity that makes food sing.